McCall's 7026 Sports Jacket Review

I was drawn to McCall's 7026 sport jacket because of the dropped back hem (I do not like cold air blowing on my sweat soaked back), thumb holes, and the princess seams. 

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline, drop bust apex, shorten sleeves.

The unusual - 
1) Reshape hood for closer fit.

2) Remove front yoke design line, my print is busy enough.

3) Lengthened the front and back at hem by 1.5 inches

4) Reshaped the pocket (I despise pockets with flat bottoms that run perpendicular to the opening, great way to lose contents in my opinion)

Pattern appreciation(s)?

This fit much better than I expected.  The design lines actually fit the body well.  I usually expect to futz and fiddle with big 4 patterns to get shaping.  Not necessary with this one.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

The included hood would have been useless.  I took a close fitting hoody and redrew the hood to hug my head, not flop.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

Shorter gals with waists.  I do not think this would work as well for straighter bodies.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Yes.  Because of the multiple pieces, this is quite miserly with fabric ... considering that it is a jacket.  I have not seen that many I would prefer to this option.

 

This is my "muslin," made from a rayon knit that probably came from Hancock's many years ago.  I wanted to use up the print and decided to sacrifice it for this pattern.  It turned into a wearable piece after inserting the zipper and trying it on.  Wow, it fits!  :) 

I sewed this while listening to China Mieville's "Kraken" ... a super strange audiobook.  The two, book and pattern, are forever entwined in my mind.  Entwined, ha, ha, like the Kraken god tentacles!  Ha, ha ... (hysterical laughter) ... ha, ha ...

McCall's 5651 Muslin Review

McCall's 5651 is out of print, http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5651-products-8646.php?page_id=1012. 

Continuing my muslin party - View A panties and View F bra.

These are the closest panties to good fit out of the package. They are a bit cheeky (nothing compared to the pattern drawing), but fairly comfortable regardless.

This bra ranks along with Jalie as a favorite of this muslin party.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – Bra front one size smaller than bra back.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Comfy.  All items sew up quickly and easily.

The panties do not shift a great deal while moving, and do not bind at front thigh (ah, I've never had comfort at that joint before).

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

The pattern is drafted with grainline going around the body, resulting in stretch of fabric going up and down the body.  As I prefer my stretch going around, I redrew the grainline perpendicular to that originally indicated.

I think I would prefer a slightly deeper bra back, it is only 1.25" as sewn. I think I will try a 2" total.

What body does this pattern fit (in my estimation)?

Perky hind ends and small busted chests.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Yes, adjustments in progress for muslin 2 ...

Panties - I will add an inch of depth to the backside (widening the bottom back) and remove that length from the crotch.

Bra - I will need to remove a one inch dart from the front armscye.  A common issue being confirmed in every muslin bra top.

McCall's 4249 - Indian Salwar Kameez

Since Halloween fell on a weekend in 2010, AND it was Renaissance months at the Texas Renaissance Fair (it runs for about two months in the Fall), I needed something fun to wear to our Sunday fun day at the Renaissance for the 31st of October.

The festival, as most of them seem to be these days, is a chest fest.  You've never seen so many pecs and so much cleavage in your life!  A cell biologist would be in heaven ... there's cleavage here and cleavage there and cleavage everywhere ... Oh, geologists would like it too ... cleavage, cleavage, cleavage.

So I pulled out my costume patterns, unearthed the carnival patterns from my Burda World of Fashion, and started planning out a typical Renaissance Fair Gown.  But then reality intruded and I thought, "Where will I ever wear this?"  If it will be useless to me after one wear, I don't have a great deal of urge to complete the project.

Another pattern lurking in my costume collection is McCall's 4249, it contains a "belly dancing" costume and a Salwar Kameez costume.

Granted, I couldn't see wearing the Salwar portion of the costume, the pants, anywhere else.  BUT, I could see wearing the Kameez over other pants for work.  So began a long search through Indian and Pakistani modern dress sites and runway shots.  I came to the conclusion that both pieces of the suit come in a vast array of styles.  There are short or tight versions of the salwar available.  And kameez come in lengths from mid-calf to tunic (mid-hip).  I could do anything I wanted and still have a fairly authentic Indian costume.

Then I had to start looking through the stash. 

I chose two pieces of rayon, one embossed and one plain woven, to complement each other.  The top went together in two days, and the pants were completed even more quickly.

Pushing a size 16/18 in patterns for pants, the 12 was waaay too small.  I enlarged the pattern a bit, but not enough.  They were still a touch tight at the lower thigh when sitting.  And I felt that they were far too large at the ankle, but my calves kept me from narrowing the lower leg anymore.  I suspect some strategic pinning in the photography examples on the pattern front.

I actually put a wide black rayon spandex waistband in these, to reduce bulk and make it more comfortable.  Except for the pulling when sitting, the pants were remarkably comfortable.  Now I know why it is the chosen style of dress for a large portion of the world. 

The kameez is a nice pattern with a gusset, first time I've ever used a gusset before.  And I loved it.  I had such range of motion.  Definitely something more of my clothing should have.

Considering how much I have to lengthen bodices (two inches), I often feel the necklines are too high.  And I did feel this one was a touch too high, but better than adding to the cleavage population at the Festival.  Besides, I plan to wear this to work, where such displays are distracting.

The bodice was self-lined and I slit the top fairly high, making pockets easily reachable.  Even in a 12 (I measure to a 14), the bodice is too big, and I will take it in (mostly at bodice front) should I make it again. 

I was stopped on our way out by a lady who commented, "I love your outfit.  It looks so comfortable."  And it was.  Nothing was binding, no body parts had to be hiked into uncomfortable positions, and all my undergarments fit easily underneath. 

Now I have to figure out what to make for Ren Fest 2011.

The hubster went in Swiss Camouflage,  an SPH4 Helicopter Pilot Helmet, and menacing face covering.  He got a LOT of attention.  The pattern "Alpenflage" is not necessarily uncommon, but still a rarity to non military buffs. 

McCall's 4304 Kimono Pattern becomes a summer robe

I made this pattern when it first came out many, many years ago.  I used a transparent deep turquoise rayon and have worn the kimono top when I remember it.  Being that it located in a drawer and not hanging in the closet, it is a bit easy to forget about.


Forward to the last year or so, when I kept saying to myself, I need a summer robe.  And after checking and re-checking all the robe patterns, I had only one thing to say, "Yuck!"

I dislike most shawl collars, and all I could think was Granny wear and I are not ready to get cozy.


Having set aside a cotton sheet after its useful life came to an end (where did all those stains come from?), I had planned to use it as muslin or something wearable.  It became my comfy summer robe.

Going by my earlier use, I traced a straight medium, added length for my long torso, and took out an inch for my sway back.  I also lengthened the pattern by about 8" and gave the skirt a little more of an A line shape (more flattering to my full hips than a straight shape).

I made french seams throughout this garment, it will keep that slinky cotton from disintegrating at too fast a rate.  The only difficulty came in matching the sleeves at the armhole.  Getting the two seams to play nice at the armpit was an exercise in patience, but it is done.

Behold, the summer robe ...

I like the loose fit and the big kimono sleeves.  Houston can be agonizingly hot in the summer so the ease is necessary for comfort.  It also covers enough that I would walk to the mailbox without too much discomfort. 

I used a quilting cotton for the neckline, both to reinforce the flimsiness of this fabric and to give me some color up near my face.  As much as I like my sheet, it is not the best color for me - the cotton neckline is a great contrast. 

So here I am, wrapped in comfort.  I recommend this as a lounging outfit.  Works great.  :)

You can find Kimono patterns in costumes, jackets, and tops.  June Colburn usually has an offering with Simplicity (though you can also get them directly from her website).