Butterick 5928 Peplum Jacket Pattern Review

The peplum trend finally caught up with me, several years post its most recent reveal.

There's just something about the lines in Butterick 5928 that called to me, rather loudly.

I was drawn to the soft collar folds and swooshy back peplum, on a jacket that was fairly short in front (a good length for me).  I hemmed and hawed, and finally caved at the last Butterick sale I ran into.

I tossed the long sleeves on the peplum body, as I generally do not wear vests and would reach for a jacket instead.

 

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline, drop bust apex, shorten sleeves, shallow chest adjustment, narrow shoulders.  I used a size 12 upper front bodice and size 14 elsewhere.

The unusual - Added a hem band (to bring up lining and weigh down the hem), added additional back shaping to conform to sway back, and narrowed the peplum by 9" total.

Upon muslining, I realized the peplum back was seriously floofy for me, so I pinned out 9 inches total.  Much better.

Fashion fabric is a toned Cadet Blue plain woven wool purchased 10+ years ago from a since closed fabric shop in Humble, TX.  It is nicely aged.  Lined in a burgundy with teal accent tie silk (I really do not like working with shreddy silk, ick.

I have more hand sewing in this jacket than in any other apparel sewing project EVER - hem band, sleeve hem, neck dart, and collar are all catch stitched to hold them in place for washing.  

All in all, the hand sewing was not as dreadful as I remember.

This turned out to be a good test run for the tailored jacket I have planned Butterick 4610 ... assuming I can ever get that danged armscye shaping properly adjusted.

Once I have everything all together and have sewn  the lining slit closed, I try it on and realize I've folded the pleats to the wrong side.  Ugh - this is what happens when you sew late.  Open it back up, rip out the stitching and fight it into the proper position - very difficult to do now that everything is sewn together.  Next time, I'll just draw the proper direction directly on the interfacing. 

And it is done.  My goal was to have a fun jacket.  Mission accomplished.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Everything lined up fairly easily.  It is a straightforward design.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

I still despise Butterick's symmetrical armhole and sleeve cap.  Who is shaped that way?

I do not understand why you would want the lining to go to the hem.  In my experience, you end up with lining peaking out, not an attractive visual.  So, I added a band myself.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

Pear shapes and anyone wanting to create shaping for the upper body.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Being a standout design, and not particularly in my daily wheelhouse, I may not make this again.  But if I needed another, yes, I would rebuy the pattern.

McCall's 5651 Muslin Review

McCall's 5651 is out of print, http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5651-products-8646.php?page_id=1012. 

Continuing my muslin party - View A panties and View F bra.

These are the closest panties to good fit out of the package. They are a bit cheeky (nothing compared to the pattern drawing), but fairly comfortable regardless.

This bra ranks along with Jalie as a favorite of this muslin party.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – Bra front one size smaller than bra back.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Comfy.  All items sew up quickly and easily.

The panties do not shift a great deal while moving, and do not bind at front thigh (ah, I've never had comfort at that joint before).

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

The pattern is drafted with grainline going around the body, resulting in stretch of fabric going up and down the body.  As I prefer my stretch going around, I redrew the grainline perpendicular to that originally indicated.

I think I would prefer a slightly deeper bra back, it is only 1.25" as sewn. I think I will try a 2" total.

What body does this pattern fit (in my estimation)?

Perky hind ends and small busted chests.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Yes, adjustments in progress for muslin 2 ...

Panties - I will add an inch of depth to the backside (widening the bottom back) and remove that length from the crotch.

Bra - I will need to remove a one inch dart from the front armscye.  A common issue being confirmed in every muslin bra top.

Jalie 3023 Bra Muslin Review

  
 

Single layer bra with necessary armscye darts pinned.

Jalie 3023 is available from http://www.jalie.com/jalie3023-tankini-swimskirt-sewing-pattern.html.

I threw together a single layer bra of this tankini, using pieces C, D, G, and H.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

None, this pattern was made as per pattern draft.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

It fits fairly well right out of the package, and I plan to make several more.  I need workout bras for my bra-less shirts, of which I have too many.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

1)  I did not enjoy how odd the folding strap puzzle went together. It does cut down on thickness, but the fiddly folding was irritating. However, I cannot imagine how to adjust the strap formation at this time.  I will ponder up until the second muslin.


2)  This is really more of a Jalie-wide disgruntlement.  I am not comfortable with 1/4" seam allowances, especially when working in knits (my sewing machines love to eat knit, 1/4" SA knits seem to be a favored dish).  I prefer the slightly larger bite of 3/8" SAs.  Having said that, I have to applaud Jalie for NOT going with 5/8" SAs (which are incredibly ridiculous).

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

The bra fits mine, so I recommend it to small busted, pear shaped upper bodies. 

Would you buy this pattern again?

Yes.  I am looking forward to working out in this bra. 

I will need to remove half an inch dart from the front armscye. This is not an uncommon adjustment for me.  This requires adjustment of pieces D (the straps) and G.  The removal is labeled below, I just have to figure out where I'm going to transfer it.

 

Butterick 6031 Muslin Review

 

Butterick 6031 is available from http://butterick.mccall.com/b6031-products-48003.php?page_id=147.


In the continuing saga to fill undergarment holes in my wardrobe, I decided to buy Butterick 6031 after seeing a photograph of the crotch lining piece.  Given its wide base, along the excellent modeling ... ahem ... hind view, I thought these would work better than other panties that appear too high cut. 

After I pulled all the pieces out, I decided to throw together a bra and compare its fit to McCall's 5651.  Keeping in mind that this is not drafted as a bra ...

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – Bra front one size smaller than back.

No further adjustments made, pattern cut out as drafted.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

I like the deeper back of this bra as compared to McCall's 5651.  As I drew it out, it is approximately 2 7/8 inches deep, compared to the 1.25 inches (from memory) of M5651.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

This bra front is too deep and cannot rest against my chest.  Rather it sits away from my chest.  This might be good for hot summers (and cami's), but I prefer fit to body.

I would need to take 1/2" dart out of the front armscye if made again (common adjustment for me in sleeveless styles).

The panties are fairly uncomfortable since they cut into my front hip (my most common complaint with RTW).  I believe this is due to my sway back (and resulting hip rotation) as well as a too short crotch length.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

If you fit RTW panties easily, this may be your perfect pattern.

Would you buy this pattern again?

For the most part, this pattern is a fail for my personal desires and comfort.  I plan to place this pattern in my cull pile and send it on to a better home than my own.

Cloth Habit Rosy Ladyshorts Muslin Review

The Cloth Habit Rosy Ladyshorts are available from Cloth Habit at http://clothhabit.com/free-pattern-rosy-ladyshorts/.

Having identified some closet "holes" I set about having a muslin party of various undergarments, bras and panties.  The Rosy Ladyshorts from Cloth Habit was a quick download and taping of just a few pages.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

As a new to me independent, I have no previously knowledge of the fit.  As such, I made this as per pattern draft.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

These did not dig into my front hip, which is a common issue I have with undergarments.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

These are extraordinarily cheeky (in parlance "minimal back coverage"), and fairly uncomfortable because they shift when I move.  This may indicate using a too big size, but I cannot see a size or two down changing their basic fit.

For me, the crotch length is way too long.  While the front fits well, the back ... well ... see above.  I took a quick 1" tuck out of the crotch length, but this made little difference in fit or feel.

I cannot imagine where to start with adjusting this pattern (major adjustments of this garment type, in my experience, tends to destroy rather than enhance the pattern).  As such, I do not intend to attempt such modifications.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

This pattern is perfect for women who are incredibly deep front to back, and can never find anything that does not bind.

Would you buy this pattern again?

This is a free pattern, and I am glad I had the chance to try it.  I just do not like the way it feels on my body. 

I add in my agreement with other bloggers, sewers, and reviewers, personal fit is very personal.  Less than stellar reviews indicate that the reviewer and tester are not necessarily copacetic. 

I have no quibbles with Cloth Habit's pattern quality.  I do keep eyeing their Watson Bra - http://shop.clothhabit.com/collections/all/products/watson-bra-bikini.

Thurlow Muslin ... Final?

These are made from a fairly thick twill, and they seem to fit well.

The waist is still a bit loose, and I still have some excess height issues in the upper front.

 Maybe they aren't the final muslin ...

Thurlow Muslin 2

 Adjustments made from muslin 1.  Fit improving.

Better fit in front, and they are comfortable to walk in, but I cannot kneel down comfortably ... my legs resemble sausages ... (lightbulb moment) I suspect my upper leg is bigger than the draft - I need more leg room.

By raising the waist seam, I now need to remove about an inch in total at the top of the waistband to better conform.  And the waistband is now too high ... remove 1/4" in height at seam. 

Thurlow Muslin 1, Sewaholic Pattern

Sewaholic Thurlow Muslin 1 - wow, are these tight!!!

Made as per directions, size 10.  My waist and hips are just a touch smaller than the pattern size.

Granted, this twill has absolutely no give, but these are tight from mid-thigh up to waist band.

I resolve to:

- raise the waistband by 1" in front

- shorten the hem by one width (1.75")

- remove a 0.5" horizontal dart at front hipline

- add 0.5" to the front thigh for ease