Springfield, IL and Long Arm Research

09/13/18 - 09/21/18

Riverside Park

Springfield, IL

Site 61

$25/night

Hm, the neighbors are nice.  Lots of full-timers.

The sites are filthy, the bathrooms are never cleaned (I’ve been staring at the same dead beetle on the shower floor for 3 days now, and I saw a guy slip into the women's restroom ONCE with a broom ... he did NOT stay long), all the smokers in IL live here, people do not clean up after their dogs, and the showers are: too low headwise (expect to bonk yours), 5-15 second push button activated, and smell of mildew.

The campground has a long list of rules, two of which were broken by our neighbor within minutes of our arrival.  By the time we pulled out, we’d seen half the rules broken by various neighbors.  Mr SMT asked if we had broken any.  No.  Most of them we could not break.  (Well, I probably broke the profanity rule, but not where neighbors could hear.)  So, in short, the rules don't apply, and are probably just there to have a reason to kick you out if you are highly dislikable.

Now, on the positive side, the shower frogs are a LOT of fun to watch.  I’m sure they come for the insects flying, crawling, and jumping around.

There is a park nearby, an equestrian center, and lovely paths between the two.  The paths are well maintained.

Springfield is oddly laid out, I assume this results from its age (former horse and carriage trails) and how the city grew (former farm land?)  The end result is that: there are no highways, avoiding residential areas is not possible, and traffic speeds are fairly low.

The lights are not timed, so expect to meditate in front of (more than) your share of red lights.  

Mr SMT feels that Springfield, the capital, is far more livable than Chicago, the major metroplex of the state, but it is also much smaller.  (I see some similarities between these two cities and Austin, Texas small capital, and Houston, largest city in TX).  Considering Illinois’ serious money issues, I was surprised by the amount of new building and road construction.  I was NOT surprised by the number of shuttered businesses.

For the most part, the city is highly generic, except, perhaps, for the Lincoln history.

We’ve hit Food Fantasies, StarCrest Laundromat, Three Twigs Bakery, and Meijer.  We recommend them all.  I found unusual flavors of hummus at Meijer, new brands to try at Food Fantasies, and delicious vegan fare at Three Twigs Bakery (Oatmeal Cookies, Bacun Donut, Granola Bite, and Chickpea Salad Sandwich ... yum).  As much as we like to experience new, we do have old standbys.  

Illinois is in the midst of a heatwave during our visit, it makes me miss Michigan!  We hide out for the hours around noon as the temperatures are hitting the mid-90s.  Shopping occurs early morning and exercise occurs either early or late.  Mosquito feeding occurs 24/7.

Riverside Park is in the running for filthiest restroom ever I a campground.  And running neck and neck with McKinney Falls State Park in Austin, TX for the filthiest sites we’ve seen.   

09/19 to 09/20

MQX - Machine Quilting Expo

Attendee, Wednesday preview

Buy Thursday ticket

I had called into the ONLY phone number I could find for MQX, asking how I could obtain a ticket and attend Preview night.  One of the show owners returned my call within 5 minutes, Mary told me all I needed to know to attend on the days and times I wanted.  (I had also emailed twice, but never received a response.

But first, I went shopping to the various quilt shops in Springfield.  At Sew Unique I chatted with owner Bonnie and her guy, they are charmers.  And I met Sarah Evans.

Sarah and I both turned up at Peace & Appliqué shortly thereafter.  Sarah is attending MQX with her friend Robbi Eklow.  I looked at Sarah and said, “Guitar quilt?”  That’s Robbi!  😄

I enjoyed, immensely, chatting with Sarah.

At Peace & Appliqué, I found Sulky 12 wt petites.  I am hoping, fingers crossed, that I like this much better than the floss.

For preview, I chatted with Bill S, one of the expo owner’s (or spouse of) and we discussed the trials and tribulations of running an exposition in such diverse areas: Springfield, IL and Manchester, NH.  They did a show in Portland, OR to test the market, but got very little buy in from the public.

Once inside the venue, I stopped first at Jane and Dave Mullen’s “Quilt Central” booth for the A-1 Long Arm quilting machine.  I liked it, in all ways, except the tablet interface.  I am old enough to prefer simpler electronics in a machine I wish to keep for the rest of my life.  Janie gave me some awesome food for thought.  She and Dave graciously allowed my monopolization for the evening, and Robbi came by a short time later.  

A-1 “Quilt Gallery” computerized system is the EZ Quilt “Butler.”  There's not a great deal of information on the Quilt Gallery System, but Butler does have a semi-useful site.  I think the IntelliQuilter might be a better computerized system.

Thursday found me back at the venue, and testing all the machines: APQS, Bernina, Gammill, and INNOVA.  What rather surprised me was the serious elbow ache I developed after running the APQS, Gammill, and Innova around.  AND, I wasn’t using their largest machines!  This definitely brought home the message Janie had suggested: FMQ with 26” or smaller, Computerized quilt with a larger than 26” machine.  Larger machines are heavier and could have some lag in the hind end.

For myself, I find an 18” machine far too short a harp space.

So, Kira wants a 24-26” LA machine.  Good to know.

Obviously, not everyone who runs the APQS, Gammill, or INNOVA around has body aches after 30 or so minutes of play.  But, it was very obvious to me.  

The Bernina Q24 also made it to my short list of likes.  Perhaps unsurprising, the Bernina and the A-1 have adjustable handles, and are much more ergonomically friendly than the fixed handle machines.

I also found the Bernina smooth and easy to maneuver, much like the A-1 machine.

Severals months back, I attended a quilt show where a vendor had APQS machines.  These are THE most talked about, and likely the highest selling machine.  So I was excited to try them out.  And after running a Millie around for a bit, I left feeling a bit disappointed.  It did not feel wonderful, like I expected it to feel (and how the hype around the “Bliss” system drove my expectations).  It was hard to maneuver.

Now, granted, your body will adapt in some ways.  I’ve borrowed a friend’s machine previously, and where I was jagged in lines, she had smooth curves because she had adapted to her machine eccentricities.  After several hours of play, my curves were smoothing out.  Kinda like having a car that pulls to one side or another.  

I wanted to have Mr SMT take a look at the A-1 machine, but he was not interested.  I cannot decide if he hates the idea of a long arm, or just thinks the only long arm to buy is a Bernina?

The Bernina gives me pause because, 1) you cannot be your own tech, 2) it has a lot of circuit boards inside, and 3) I have been told it simply is not built to industrial quality and longevity (and yes, this is from people who sell them and love them, but this is NOT a lifetime machine).

On the other hand, Bernina information, manuals, and specifications are VERY easy to find online.  I do not want to call in to the manufacturer for every little problem I experience.  Having great resource material is half the battle.

StyleArc Marie Jacket Review

I've mentioned the Style Arc Marie several times to my bestie.  We've discussed it, picked it apart, compared it to McCall's 7199 (I do not like the back design lines of the McCall's), and compared online reviews. 

I received it as a birthday present (yay!).  Friends are the best!

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline, shorten sleeves.

The unusual - 
1) Added pockets (maybe this should be moved to the usual?)

2) Shortened 4" at the upper hipline.  A quick flat pattern measurement indicated that this would be too long, as packaged, to suit my preferences.

3) Shifted the design line "bust dart" several inches up.  As others have mentioned, as drafted, it is much lower and has a sharper angle that the picture indicates.  I shifted it to where it looks like it does in the drawings, I find that more attractive for myself.  It would also be easy to toss it altogether if you so wish.

4) Shaping.  I'd read that the side seams were pretty shapeless, and a glance over the pattern had me agreeing.  So I took 4"? (if I remember correctly) out of the waistline side seams.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

This thing is pretty darn awesome.  Very comfy.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

I do not like that the "bust dart" (not really a dart) is very different in person than the artist rendering.  I'm glad I read about this in previous reviews, or I would have been surprised after making it up.  Not that it shows in my print, but still.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

As drafted, it works best for rectangular figures, but it is easy to add in shaping.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Absolutely.  I see this being a staple.  Especially since I figured out pocket addition!  :)

Apparently Style Arc drafts for long armed ladies.  I took 2" off the sleeve length, but with my stretchy knit, apparently that was not enough.

This is made from a lightweight rayon knit.  Far too flimsy for this pattern.  So each body piece was fused, and the entire jacket body is lined with another light rayon knit.  

It is fabulous for spring/fall/light winter wear (heck, we are down south with winter temps averaging in the 60s F/15.5 C for the highs).

When I next make this, I will draft hem bands, rather than the suggested fold and hem.  Bands just give such jackets a better weight and hang in my opinion.

I wore it out for our shopping the other day: chestnut skirt, basic Tee, and sandals.  It was a bit warm in the high 90s F/32 C under the blazing sun.  But perfect for keeping comfortable in the grocery stores and library

Definitely another keeper!  I've found some TNTs in my mega stash, which is a nice feeling.

Onion 5022 Knit Top Review

I've sought a built in cap sleeve tank pattern for some time.

This is the closest I have found to RTW options.

Onion 5022 is out of print as far as I can tell, and the closest option they currently have is Onion 5035.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline.

The unusual - 
1) Changed neckline because I prefer V necks

2) Narrowed the shoulder line (this pattern is wide at the shoulders, and I am not)

3) Added in shaping at waistline (and I did not add enough).

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Very simple, two pieces - one front, one back.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

These are made for straight bodies, so you have to add in your own curves if you want this to follow your contours.  More of a fit model versus customer body than actual pattern issues.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

Rectangles, with wide shoulders.

Would you buy this pattern again?

It is OOP, unfortunately.  So I think the likelihood of finding this pattern is slim to none.

However, I would buy a similar pattern in a heartbeat.  I like the wideness of the straps that put this type of pattern smack dab between tank top and t-shirt.

This was thrown together in a couple hours using hemp knit, and I finished the armholes and neckline with a rolled edge binding. 

The photos show trial 2, I still have some shaping to do around the hip region, but I am pleased with the top.  It has gotten several wears already.  I need a closet full of simple, natural/neutral tops to pull on and go.  This is one of my options.  I continue to search through my stash for additional pattern ideas. 

Simplicity 1318 Kimono Jacket Review

I'm drawn to kimono styles.  There is something utterly elegant about them.

When this pattern, Simplicity 1318 (view C), first appeared, I spent most of my time trying to talk myself out of it (not the best shape for you, no pockets, etc. etc.).  Honestly, I have enough patterns to keep me busy for life.  But I still bought this.  And added pockets, of course.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, so it would follow the contours of my backside.

 The unusual - Added pockets, curved pockets.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

It is a fun jacket for throw and go.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

I do not remember any, except the usual refusal to include pockets.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

This is a multi-body pattern for an easy jacket top.  It will best flatter the rectangular figure, but pshaw, who cares?  The only thing rectangular on me is my face.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Maybe not.  I like the jacket, and have worn it a bunch this summer (great to pull on while suffering over A/Ced enviros).  But, admittedly, it is hard to drive in, because there is a lot of ease and the seatbelt can limit arm movement (may be best to NOT drive in this!  Ha, ha).  So maybe, but maybe not.

Another rare print that is me.  It feels very fungal/lichen-y.  This is a knit that may have come from fabric.com, but I do not remember exactly.  It has aged in the stash for a couple years, and my memory for fabric purchases finally crumbled under the staggering weight of excess yardage.

"Tina Givens" "Drennon Tunic" Review

Tina Givens Drennon Tunic is an open side, slit to waist, knee length (on me) tunic covering.  The pattern is free from her website, and is a more streamlined introduction to her patterns (compared to some of the other reviews I've seen).

It would be great for a pool coverup as well.

This is my "toe in the water" dip for the looser fit/lagenlook style that is gaining popularity.  It was made from an old white cotton sateen sheet, dyed with fiber reactive dyes from Dharma Trading Company.

 I think I need to lose another 2" in length in the back so it will hang properly.

I made a small, which fits up to a 44" bust.  I'm generally around 36" give or take.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back.  Being that this is such a loose fit item, I did not fiddle with any other adjustments.  In the future I would make a much greater swayback adjustment.

The unusual - 
1)  I did add an inch to the skirt length when cutting.

2)  Sliced off a triangular section of hem at each bodice side. 
The biggest problem I had with the pattern was with the side seam of the bodice and where it meets the waistband.  It was really puckering and sloppy as originally sewn to pattern.

So I unpicked, tried it on, and pinned the pieces where I thought they should go to hang properly (see photo below).  Then I used a fabric marker to indicate the new seam line on the bodice pieces, and transferred that to the pattern.

In the end, I sliced off the pieces that make the bodice so unique and unusual in the flat pattern.  And it fit much better.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

It is free, and a fairly quick sew.  I spent more time making and sewing binding than I did on any other part of this tunic.  (And her binding length recommendation is generous, especially for size small.  If you are short a bit of fabric for the binding, don't sweat it too much.)

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

You have to use your imagination with the line drawings, and be ready and willing to change it up.  I think this is a fairly well known "issue" with Tina Givens designs.  These are not for by the book sewists who have to follow the directions as written and never stray.

As depicted in the drawing, the tunic laps back over front - which I found to be rather unflattering.  So I switched the lapping to front over back, which controls the loose flipping of the back bodice on my bodyshape/style.  Much better.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

This is a little harder to answer.  Himself said the pictures make me look shorter and wider than I really am. 

I think the skirt needs to be either shorter or longer for me.  Especially as worn with an A-line skirt that causes additional width at the knee area.

Would you buy this pattern again?

I'm not sure.  My wardrobe is in flux at the moment.  Depending on the direction I take with it, I can see either several more Drennon's in my future, or none.

I believe we should all step out of our comfort zone from time to time, and this is one of those patterns for me.  It could lead to some interesting results!

Butterick 5928 Peplum Jacket Pattern Review

The peplum trend finally caught up with me, several years post its most recent reveal.

There's just something about the lines in Butterick 5928 that called to me, rather loudly.

I was drawn to the soft collar folds and swooshy back peplum, on a jacket that was fairly short in front (a good length for me).  I hemmed and hawed, and finally caved at the last Butterick sale I ran into.

I tossed the long sleeves on the peplum body, as I generally do not wear vests and would reach for a jacket instead.

 

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline, drop bust apex, shorten sleeves, shallow chest adjustment, narrow shoulders.  I used a size 12 upper front bodice and size 14 elsewhere.

The unusual - Added a hem band (to bring up lining and weigh down the hem), added additional back shaping to conform to sway back, and narrowed the peplum by 9" total.

Upon muslining, I realized the peplum back was seriously floofy for me, so I pinned out 9 inches total.  Much better.

Fashion fabric is a toned Cadet Blue plain woven wool purchased 10+ years ago from a since closed fabric shop in Humble, TX.  It is nicely aged.  Lined in a burgundy with teal accent tie silk (I really do not like working with shreddy silk, ick.

I have more hand sewing in this jacket than in any other apparel sewing project EVER - hem band, sleeve hem, neck dart, and collar are all catch stitched to hold them in place for washing.  

All in all, the hand sewing was not as dreadful as I remember.

This turned out to be a good test run for the tailored jacket I have planned Butterick 4610 ... assuming I can ever get that danged armscye shaping properly adjusted.

Once I have everything all together and have sewn  the lining slit closed, I try it on and realize I've folded the pleats to the wrong side.  Ugh - this is what happens when you sew late.  Open it back up, rip out the stitching and fight it into the proper position - very difficult to do now that everything is sewn together.  Next time, I'll just draw the proper direction directly on the interfacing. 

And it is done.  My goal was to have a fun jacket.  Mission accomplished.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Everything lined up fairly easily.  It is a straightforward design.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

I still despise Butterick's symmetrical armhole and sleeve cap.  Who is shaped that way?

I do not understand why you would want the lining to go to the hem.  In my experience, you end up with lining peaking out, not an attractive visual.  So, I added a band myself.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

Pear shapes and anyone wanting to create shaping for the upper body.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Being a standout design, and not particularly in my daily wheelhouse, I may not make this again.  But if I needed another, yes, I would rebuy the pattern.