Seborrheic Dermatitis, Skin, and updates

As Senya requested, here is an updated routine. 

As an aside - Several readers over the years have written in claiming that SD is caused by only one thing and all you have to do is _____ (whatever they are shilling) to stop your problem.  I disagree.  I think it is pretty obvious from most of my reader responses, that SD can have several different root causes and you have to work it on your own end to find fixes.  My own fix came about from cutting dairy out of my diet.  I encourage you to read back through comments of others struggling (without thoughtful medical help BTW) to find the answer to their own disease state.  Best of luck to us all!


It has now been 3 and one half years since my last Seborrheic Dermatitis outbreak came to a close.  I do not use any Seborrheic Dermatitis medication, neither OTC or prescribed.  I haven't needed them since 2008.

My current care routine closely follows what I originally developed in 2008, with minor tweaks here and there.

Above is a January 2012 skin photograph.   If dryness shows up, it will start at the nasolabial folds, and that is my notice that whatever product combination I am using at the moment is NOT working.

I am still dairy free (I still miss nachos, but I'll smell some of hubbies cheese to get my fix), and have started eating eggs (really only in fried rice, because the smell of just eggs is a bit revolting).  Eggs do not seem to have an impact on my skin issues.

I fell off my workout wagon in 2009/2010 due to "Cubital Tunnel Syndrome", and have only returned to regularly scheduled exercise for the last six or so months.  While I did not see a large skin change with my workout losses, my energy levels were very different, as was my personal outlook.  I am a much happier, and easier going person when I get a regular workout.  :)

Products currently in the lineup:
Soap - All Terrain All Natural Wonder Wash Fragrance Free
(this is also my shampoo, my dog wash, and my occasional clothes wash on vacation)
This is the rare soap that does not dry out my skin, and yet can be used several times a day.  I'm ready to start putting it in pump bottles for handwashing.


Facial Lotions/Creams - this category is always under revision because I've rarely found anything with which I am truly happy.  The La Roche Posay Toleriane and Toleriane Riche works very well for me, but I find their prices ridiculous (about $20/ounce).  And no, I don't think it is R&D I am paying for, but rather "the European mystique" and L'Oreal's advertising budget, since L'Oreal is the parent company of La Roche Posay.

- Almond Oil - this was an amazing discovery last year.  This is pretty much my go to night oil/lotion.  It absorbs fairly quickly.  I use it on my face, neck, chest, hands (especially nails), basically anywhere.  However, it does not absorb immediately, so it is not something for a morning routine unless you like the slicked up skin look.  Totally unscented and rarely, if ever, causing any kind of breakout.

- Giovanni D:tox System Replenishing Facial Moisturizer - this is the morning moisturizer I reach for if I am staying inside all day (or in the evening if I am going out).  My only issue is that it has a fragrance that I dislike, it reads as a light greened floral.  It does dissipate fairly quickly, but I'd still prefer something unscented and unfragranced.  (I don't abhor the fragrance as I do with other products such as The Healing Seed "Facial Cream" or Alaffia "Baobab & Shea Butter Skin Renewal Face Cream".)  This is my replacement for La Roche Posay Toleriane, but I am looking for a replacement for my replacement - unscented please.

- DeVita Protective Moisturizer SPF 30+ - is my morning moisturizer when I'm planning to be outside for any extended length of time (over 15 minutes).  This may be just perfect.  However, it is a recent acquisition and I want a full summer with it before I jump on the bandwagon (it is better than Kimberly Sayer Ultra Light Facial Moisturizer - SPF30, which is simply too drying for winter).  I plan to order more DeVita lotions and creams with my next iHerb order.

Body Lotion - I have a bottle of body lotion in just about every major room of the house.

Beauty without Cruelty Fragrance Free body lotion is in my kitchen.  Not amazing, but not bad.  No scent to interfere with food enjoyment.  Absorbs quickly.

Mode De Vite Shea Butter Body Lotion "unscented" - does smell of the neem in the product.  The scent throws me off, but this is the only lotion I reach for when the skin is really damaged and needs serious relief.  Strangely enough, also the only lotion of which I have a backup.  So while I don't like the scent, its benefits outweigh the negatives.  The scent does dissipate over an hour or so.

Nature's Gate Fragrance Free Moisturizing Lotion for Sensitive Skin - this is the lotion in my bathroom that I use before bed just about every night (after my almond oil application).  Like the BWC lotion it is neither amazing nor bad.  It works, the scent does not distract me while I'm trying to fall asleep.  Absorbs quickly.


Makeup

Lipstick - Reds, Oranges, Plums, and Browns
A small selection of my lip products.  I keep buying, because I can rarely find a great color.  Good, yes, great no.  I have coloring between neutral and super warm, and lipsticks are usually made for the cool and the super warm.  I do not react to any of these lipsticks, which is a major and common concern of mine.  I've reacted to Cover Girl, Almay, and Josie Maran lipsticks and lipglosses.

Revlon Super Lustrous "Ravish Me Red", Revlon Colorburst "Candy Apple", Fyrrinae Lip Lustre "Hair Dye", Silk Naturals Butter Cream "Mango", Korres Cherry Lip Gloss "Natural Purple 25", Korres Mango Butter Lipstick "Natural Purple 25", Revlon Super Lustrous "Plum Baby", Korres Cherry Oil Lip Gloss "Golden Brown 37", Korres Mango Butter Lipstick "Cinnamon", and Revlon Super Lustrous "Highbeam Tan"

Revlon Colorburst lipsticks, Silk Naturals Butter Cream Lip Glazes, and Korres Cherry Oil Lip Gloss all have scents.  They are faint scents (so faint, apparently that some people cannot smell them, see Scrangie's post on Revlon Colorburst - I don't have that problem) but they dissipate rapidly enough that I still wear them.  Not as often as I would if they were completely unscented (as they should be, in my opinion).

The Silk Naturals Butter Cream in "Mango" is a replacement for the Fyrinnae "Hair Dye" which is apparently discontinued.  However, I will keep searching for a more widely distributed replacement, since smaller companies have a much higher product line turnover than larger companies (some kind of supply and demand nonsense).

Eyeshadow Primer - Too Faced Shadow Insurance
The only primer I have found that works for my skin (and does not cause a reaction).  It keeps my eyeshadow from creasing, which happens within two hours without a primer.

Eyeshadow - In addition to a small collection of Stila and Mac, I have two and a half tubs of loose and mineral eyeshadows.  95% of those shadows come from these six companies:

Aromaleigh "Nocciola",  Fyrinnae "Griffonrider", Korres "Golden Bronze 27S", Meow Cosmetics "Trophy Cat", Morgana Minerals "Emily", and Silk Naturals "Caliber"

Eyeliners - These only get use if I am in a hurry.  Most often, I would prefer to use one of my eyeshadows for liner, but time constraints may push me to use real "eyeliner" instead.  I do not react to any of these products, and they last and do not migrate through a day of work (none of them last without migrating overnight, but during the day I am good).

Too Faced Perfect Eyes Waterproof Eyeliner in Perfect Peacock and Perfect Storm.  They are expensive, but I like the ingredients list better than the Covergirl Liquilineblast Eyeliners.  I do wish they had a much wider range of colors.

Kat von D liquid Tattoo Liner in Maya.  Easy to apply, lasts all day, and has not dried up yet.  A celebrity's personal life does impact my choices and I'm not sure I'll be able to buy anymore KVD stuff.

Cover Girl Liquidlineblast Eyeliner in Brown Blaze and Violet Voltage.  Made in Germany, just like the Too Faced, and sharing a remarkable similarity, the ingredients lists do differ but they both work quite well.  I prefer Cover Girls price and Too Faced inci.

Urban Decay's 24/7 Eyeliner Pencil's are holy grail products for many enthusiasts.  However, they migrate on my lower lid, staying in place only for an hour or two.  So while I do have several UD 24/7 liners, I'll reach for my Too Faced, KVD, or CoverGirl first.

 

Face Primer - Korres Vitamin E Silicon Free Primer
Especially useful in summer, when I know plain moisturizer is not going to keep my makeup on all day.  The sweat defeats primerless application every time.  Korres other primer, Quercetin & Oak, causes a moderate allergic reaction (so glad I never purchased a full size).  So I will stick with the less expensive primer as long as they make it. 

Foundation - Meow Pampered Puss in Frisky Mau color, depth of 2.
One of the few powdered foundations that does not irritate my skin.  Other powders can make me feel as though I am buffing with sand.  Not so this foundation.  Not to mention, it is one of two foundations I've used in my entire life that actually match my skin.  Most foundations are not warm enough.

  

Balms - I have balms spread throughout the house much like (and very close to) the body lotions.  These have to work for two people in the house (unlike most of my other products ... for instance, the hubbie never has asked to use my makeup, so it does not have to agree with him but he does need a lip balm from time to time). 

Aubry Organics Organic Lip Balm "Tangerine" - works, but too much citrus oil

Mode de Vite Karite Lips "Vanilla" - works, but too much vanilla

Dr. Bronner's Magic Organic Lip Balm "Naked" - a favorite, works well all night long

The Merry Hempsters Vegan Hemp Balm "Natural" - a favorite, and I have a backup.  The slightest of scents, perhaps from the rosemary extract, but it does not bother me.

Now Completely Kissable "Vanilla" - it works, but I don't like the scent.

Terra Firma Cosmetics Chai Tea Lip Moisture - a favorite, it is what I reach for when my lips are damaged.  Unfortunately, they no longer sell this ... and it was the only Terra Firma product I could wear, so not impressed with anything else I bought.  Their "lip balm" has a similar ingredients list, but it is not the same item.

Weleda Everon Lip Balm - another favorite of which I have a backup.  However, it always takes me a couple days to get used to the rose scent again.  It really works well, but I'd prefer one that did not have such a strong scent.

As an aside, I have a young pup to whom I have lost several tubes of lip balm.  They seem to call to him from across the room.  I have found their chewed remains in the strangest places.  So now all my tubes are placed relatively high, because waist height is far too low for my circus pup.

Keeping an eye on our elderly: family, friends, neighbors

Grandma Got Conned ...

My grandmother and I are fairly far apart in miles, but we keep in touch by phone.

We'll play message tag for a couple of days until we get to have a voice to voice, so to speak.  Last weekend and week went about typical.  She called over the weekend, but I was unable to respond to her call until that following Tuesday.

We caught up on the latest happenings, the family gossip, and her very busy schedule.  We were going through our closing "routine" - it takes about three or so times to say goodbye as we think up things we didn't mention earlier in the conversation, when her comments made all the hairs on my body stand on end.

"I got a phone call from a man today, from Medicare.  He told me they were re-issuing cards and he needed by bank account and routing number."  I laughed, "Well, you didn't give him anything, did you?"  Ha, ha, I hear about these phone calls all the time.  Surely *MY* grandmother wouldn't fall for such, would she?

Yep ... hook, line, and sinker.  She continued, "I kept telling him I didn't think I should be giving him this information."  But he was a smooth customer, giving her the phone number for Medicare to call back and double check after their conversation was complete.  She handed over all of her important information, including her social security number, I later learned.


I would love to find her caller and wring his neck.  But for a while, I was also tempted to wring my grandmother's.  How dare she fall for this!  She owns her own business (has for years), is a active 80+, and lives alone in her own house.

She should be smarter than this rang from all quarters of the family for several days.  And I am reminded, once again, of what these confidence men (conmen) are looking for: lonely elderly who grew up in a very different environment and will respond to the authority that comes through a phone line.


It has been a wake up call to me.  Even my family is not safe from these idiotic a$$es out to make a quick buck.

The good news is that grandma got right on the ball after I told her she probably lost all the money in that account.  First, she called Medicare, who set her straighter than I (apparently).  Then she called the banks.  That next morning she had a hold on her account ASAP and closed it.

She did not lose any money, but the stress and sleeplessness have definitely taken their toll.  She keeps asking, "Why won't the cops or the government do anything about this?" 

My answer does not please her, since this is a "damage-less" crime, it is low on the totem pole of things-to-do. 


I wonder, who else is on my list of "double check to make sure they aren't succumbing to smooth taking telephone callers?"


Grandma is doing better, but it will be some months before she can shake off the pall of this experience.  She is also doing well with the good-natured ribbing she constantly gets from the family.  Though she is not too keen on coughing up a "saver's fee" for my intervention!  :)

OPI DS Jewel Swatch

OPI DS Jewel ... an elite designer series lacquer, guaranteed to make your mouth water in some nail polish induced joy ... right???

Wow. This is once seriously ugly nail polish.

 

DS Jewel has a streaky, corpse pale, smokey base that causes the first coat to give you slightly shimmery dead nails. The second coat does not improve things much. The third coat does give it some depth with the red-violet glitter, but that semi-translucent smokey base curdles the shimmery goodness.

No wonder you do not see swatches for this. Who would pay good money for this crappy polish when given an option? OPI "Teasy Does It" is a much better warmed red-violet glitter option.

I love a good jelly, and VNL rarely bothers me. However, the juxtaposition of this warm shimmer riding on a ghostly ugly cool base is a definite turn off.

Maybe DS Jewel would make a good layer polish ... but that is what CND Effects are for, yup.

Barielle Hydrating Ridge Filler

I placed my last Barielle order in late September of 2010.  Which is about when I opened my newest bottle of Barielle Hydrating Ridge Filler with Silk Fiber for Dry, Brittle or Ridged Nails.

It has been my go to base coat for well over a year now.  This is my second bottle.  It is moisturizing to a point, and has a protein compound to help strengthen nails.  However, I did not get very far through this second bottle, before it developed the same kind of cloggy, aggregating flakes that my first bottle developed.

These odd flakes are impossible to prevent, regardless of how clean I keep the bottle or how much contamination I try to avoid.  Between the price, $16 a bottle, and how quickly this second bottle has flaked, I am left disgruntled.

The flakes are laid down upon the nail, resembling an odd glitter lump on the nail.  So with any lightly pigmented lacquer the white grit bumps show through.  And anything creme shows the lump.  Perhaps not visible to the casual eye, but how many of us look casually at our manicures?

Here is the old bottle with a picture of the new bottle right beside it.  You can see the flakes coating the inside of the bottle.  No way to get rid of those unless I filtered them out.  Hm.

My disappointment in this fail leads me to investigate several other moisturizing base coats.  

I now have in my arsenal:
Citra 2 for soft, peeling nails by Nail Tek
Nail Strengthening Basecoat by Poshe - this has mineral spirits in it, *REALLY*, hydrocarbons ... I'm sure a replacement is available Poshe
Nail Rebuilding Protein by Barielle - this has camphor, so I expect the smell to bother me

Zoya Faye Review try 2

Apparently the great blogger outage is only going to repair certain posts ... I would choose the day before the outage to upload four posts of information.


I thought Zoya Faye was going to be my color from the collection. A beautiful plum with gold glitter,  just perfect.   However,  it just does not grab my eye.  I'm not sure how a semi-translucent base with gold glitter smorgasbord can be boring, but this Zoya Sunshine certainly fits the definition in my case.  I've even tossed Apple into the donate pile.  It is almost like they made a collection, didn't like it, and tossed in glitter to liven it up.  But not enough. 

 

Additionally, it is as slow drying as everyone says. I have never had a Zoya dry so slowly. Even with 15 minutes between coats, I banged up two nails after a quick drying topcoat was added.

In the light of the setting sun.


I guess we should have realized, if Zoya was putting this brand-new superduper set of collections on discount sale, something about the formula was going to be crappy.

Base coat - Nubar NuNails
two layers lacquer
quick drying topcoat - Nubar Diamont (old formula)

In the shade.



Too many issues - it is not worth it.

There is a minor bit of VNL present in certain lighting conditions, but I'm surprised that bothers anybody. It is hardly noticeable at two coats.

It has held up quite well to five days of abuse, with chipping only along peeling nail layers.  Minor tip wear.

Regardless, I prefer Zoya Pru,  and will be gifting Zoya Faye to another.

Morgana Cryptoria Lipstick Swatches 2 (the warmer side)

Top Left to Right: Cocoa, Clay Bakin', Apple Plum
Second Left to Right: 24K Pumpkin, Pumpkin Eater

In bright sunlight.

In the shade.

Cocoa is almost a my lip shade color, peachy beige, fairly easy to apply.  But I'm really not looking for a nude lip.

Clay Bakin' is a bit darker and a bit pinker than Cocoa.  Also fairly easy to apply.  

Apple Plum is almost a warmed berry color.  A bit too pink for me to be comfortable.  Not too dark, but not too light.  

24K Pumpkin is a beautiful orange shade that is a bit deeper and more toned down than Pumpkin Eater.  This is one shade I may purchase.  It is a reddened orange.

Pumpkin Eater is the only full size Morgana shade I own, but it is too bright for me to be very comfortable.  It is a metallic red-orange.  The most unusual shade I've ever seen.  And very bright!

Morgana Cryptoria lipstick swatches

I do have far too many lipsticks.  But I wear most of them.  Not that I will ever hit the base of a lipstick, but I'm getting close with a couple of my Korres Mangos.

Korres lipsticks are usually very light, and very natural looking.  But every once in a while, I want a lipstick with more pigment.  I have a couple Laura Mercier, Stila Long Wears, and Primitives.  I'm always on the lookout for my perfect lip color.

So I ordered a bunch of samples from Morgana's last sale, hoping to find a perfect plum, a gorgeous red/orange, and an exceptional peach.  Of course, any browns that work will also be welcome.

And I have finally come to a conclusion.  Morgana Cryptoria has really nice lipsticks that don't make me feel pretty.  And, really, it is not her schtick.  The company is a "goth" brand that makes gorgeously weird colors.  But they are not for me.  All of her lippies scream "look at me" and that in not the person I am.

So I won't purchase any MC lipsticks, and will stick with her pigments.  But don't let my experience deter you.  If you have cool coloring, or want to stick out, check out Morgana Cryptoria.

The sample containers are clam shells with differing amounts of product.  But all contain at least enough for a week's worth of sampling.

First Row (left to right) Goldrush, Peach Daquiri, Sunset Peach
Second Row (left to right) Plum Crazy, Plumeria, Shrieking Violet
Third Row (left and right) Mocha Blast, Guilded Brown


I applied all of these with a lip brush to my bare hand.

Shade was the game for the day.

Though I did catch the occasional ray of sun.

A second sun picture.

First Row (left to right) Goldrush, Peach Daquiri
Second Row (left to right) Plum Crazy, Plumeria
Third Row (left and right) Mocha Blast

First Row (left to right) Peach Daquiri, Sunset Peach
Second Row (left to right) Plumeria, Shrieking Violet
Third Row (left and right) Gilded Brown


Goldrush - A warm gold with red and green microglitter.  It had good coverage with a lip brush.

Peach Daquiri - A very light and warmish pink.  It has red microglitter and good coverage.  This left a day long stain behind on my hand.

Sunset Peach - An orange base, so much warmer than Peach Daquiri, it also has red microglitter.  Less pigmented and patchy coverage, so you need to take greater care with application.

Plum Crazy - This reads mauvey brown to me.  Not much plum.  It also had patchy coverage, so care needs to be taken with application.

Plumeria - A red-violet with blue glitter.  Not as dark as Shrieking Violet, with more red.  It has patchy coverage, take care with application.

Shrieking Violet- This is a medium red-violet creme without any glitter.   It is darker and more blue than Plumeria.  It is extraordinarily patchy, so I would call it a wash of color, but fairly pigmented.  Perhaps a good starter color, though it will read very different depending on the shade of your lips.  On my pale skin and pigmented lips, this turns a dark, cyanotic purple.  It is overwhelming on my pale features.

Mocha Blast - A medium cool brown with red microglitter.  It had fairly nice coverage.

Gilded Brown - This is a deep orange bronze metallic.  It has great coverage, and makes me look like an extra on a sci-fi show.


These lipsticks have a good to great coverage, with some needing more care than others.  They don't overwhelm my sense of smell, although they do have a slight scent.  It is not bothersome.

I caved, OPI "Take the Stage" Swatch

After my high dungeon speech about OPI turning on its customers and requiring full price sales only, I was inundated by Burlesque swatches.

I was grabbed and shaken about by "Take the Stage" a strongly red copper almost glass flecked shimmer.  Being that I also came across a sale, I purchased it ... and perhaps "Rising Star" and "Tease-y Does it!" came along as well.

Now that I have applied "Take the Stage" I cannot understand all the gushing OPI love I keep reading for Burlesque.  This thing is almost a nightmare to work with.  It doesn't have enough pigment and the first coat is a streaky, smeary mess.  The followup with a second coat just reveals all the cuticle drag and bare spots from the first coat. 

Take the Stage is basically a heavy micro glitter in clear coat.  As such, the streakyness is very bothersome to me.  I do not see it so much in photographs, but in person the problems are obvious.  In the photograph, the outer edge of my pointer finger has a long streak (left side in the picture).

It probably needs a third coat, but I don't have that much patience.  Especially since this dries really, really slowly.  It is not as bad as an Orly for me, but it is close.  I ended up having to redo two nails after 30 minutes of drying resulted in severe smudging.  I don't know what I caught them on, but they looked horrid.

So even though the color is spectacular, the formula is horrendous.  Just not worth it.

AND, obvious VNL at two coats.

Tossed into my give away pile.

Luckily, very little from the "Texas" collection is calling to me.  I feel a slight need to defend the state against such a poorly thought out color story.  I will only say that it is obvious a native was NOT consulted.  We would never have given approval.

Additionally, OPI's "Smok'n in Havana" re-release keeps whispering to me.  But everytime it "pssts" in my ear, I look back to my Take the Stage photos and think, "Naah."



I still haven't tried "Rising Star."  I figure it will have the same issues as "Take the Stage."  Luckily, "Tease-y Does It!" has a pigmented base, making the wearing experience far more satisfying than "Take the Stage."  Weather did not co-operate for photographs.  Next time.

Conclusion, OPI really lets the warm toned down collection after collection.  It is either nothing but bad colors, or a good color with a craptastic formula.  Hey, Zoya, whaddya got goin' on?

McCall's 4249 - Indian Salwar Kameez

Since Halloween fell on a weekend in 2010, AND it was Renaissance months at the Texas Renaissance Fair (it runs for about two months in the Fall), I needed something fun to wear to our Sunday fun day at the Renaissance for the 31st of October.

The festival, as most of them seem to be these days, is a chest fest.  You've never seen so many pecs and so much cleavage in your life!  A cell biologist would be in heaven ... there's cleavage here and cleavage there and cleavage everywhere ... Oh, geologists would like it too ... cleavage, cleavage, cleavage.

So I pulled out my costume patterns, unearthed the carnival patterns from my Burda World of Fashion, and started planning out a typical Renaissance Fair Gown.  But then reality intruded and I thought, "Where will I ever wear this?"  If it will be useless to me after one wear, I don't have a great deal of urge to complete the project.

Another pattern lurking in my costume collection is McCall's 4249, it contains a "belly dancing" costume and a Salwar Kameez costume.

Granted, I couldn't see wearing the Salwar portion of the costume, the pants, anywhere else.  BUT, I could see wearing the Kameez over other pants for work.  So began a long search through Indian and Pakistani modern dress sites and runway shots.  I came to the conclusion that both pieces of the suit come in a vast array of styles.  There are short or tight versions of the salwar available.  And kameez come in lengths from mid-calf to tunic (mid-hip).  I could do anything I wanted and still have a fairly authentic Indian costume.

Then I had to start looking through the stash. 

I chose two pieces of rayon, one embossed and one plain woven, to complement each other.  The top went together in two days, and the pants were completed even more quickly.

Pushing a size 16/18 in patterns for pants, the 12 was waaay too small.  I enlarged the pattern a bit, but not enough.  They were still a touch tight at the lower thigh when sitting.  And I felt that they were far too large at the ankle, but my calves kept me from narrowing the lower leg anymore.  I suspect some strategic pinning in the photography examples on the pattern front.

I actually put a wide black rayon spandex waistband in these, to reduce bulk and make it more comfortable.  Except for the pulling when sitting, the pants were remarkably comfortable.  Now I know why it is the chosen style of dress for a large portion of the world. 

The kameez is a nice pattern with a gusset, first time I've ever used a gusset before.  And I loved it.  I had such range of motion.  Definitely something more of my clothing should have.

Considering how much I have to lengthen bodices (two inches), I often feel the necklines are too high.  And I did feel this one was a touch too high, but better than adding to the cleavage population at the Festival.  Besides, I plan to wear this to work, where such displays are distracting.

The bodice was self-lined and I slit the top fairly high, making pockets easily reachable.  Even in a 12 (I measure to a 14), the bodice is too big, and I will take it in (mostly at bodice front) should I make it again. 

I was stopped on our way out by a lady who commented, "I love your outfit.  It looks so comfortable."  And it was.  Nothing was binding, no body parts had to be hiked into uncomfortable positions, and all my undergarments fit easily underneath. 

Now I have to figure out what to make for Ren Fest 2011.

The hubster went in Swiss Camouflage,  an SPH4 Helicopter Pilot Helmet, and menacing face covering.  He got a LOT of attention.  The pattern "Alpenflage" is not necessarily uncommon, but still a rarity to non military buffs. 

Lowest toxicity Nail Lacquers or Nail Polish

In my search for less toxicity and better health, everything has come under scrutiny.  Including my polish collection.  I started collecting more than the typical bottle or two of polish about four years ago.

When the 3-free (toluene, formaldehyde, and dibutyl phthalate free ... perhaps it goes to show my own obsessiveness that I didn't even have to look up the spelling for those) craze started up several years ago, I tossed all my old lacquer formula (gave them away) and started collecting 3-free only.

Now the new 3-free formulae have reached the point where there is a big difference in toxicity levels. 

I run the ingredients list through the Skin Deep Cosmetics Database, http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com, and use that as a basis for my opinion of the lacquers.

According to ingredients lists, the lowest toxicity lacquers available today are: CND Colours & Effects, Nfu-Oh, Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics, and $ephora by OPI.  All four companies have a 3 out of 10 toxicity rating according to Skin Deep.

I think it is time for all those other companies to re-think their new formulas - Diamond Cosmetics, Ginger + Liz, Illamasqua, NARS, Orly, and SpaRitual ... along with anyone else who hasn't yet converted to a 3-free formula.

CND Ingredients
butyl acetate; ethyl acetate; nitrocellulose; acetyl tributyl citrate; phthalic anhydride/trimellitic anhydride/glycols copolymer; isopropyl alcohol; titanium dioxide; adipic acid/fumaric acid/phthalic acid/tricyclodecane dimethanol copolymer; adipic acid/neopentyl glycol/trimellitic anyhydride copolymer; sucrose acetate isobutyrate; stearalkonium hectorite; citric acid; ethyl tosylamide; iron oxides

I have found the new CND polishes to be fairly opaque with one coat and have little to no cuticle drag.  They dry quickly.  Longevity is a bit of a crap shoot, some last for close to a week, some last only two days before tip wear is obvious.  I have not had chipping problems with this new formula.
 

Nfu-Oh Ingredients
Ethyl Acetate; Butyl Acetate; Nitrocellulose; Acetyl Tributyl Citrate; Isobutyl Acetate; Isopropyl Alcohol; Adipic Acid/Neopentyl; Silica; Styrene-Acrylates Copolymer; N-Butyl Alcohol; Cl 26100

Nfu-Oh are a weakness inducing polish.  They have a huge amount of finishes and an absolutely astounding array of colors.  It is a good thing that more of the line is not carried here in the states, or my collection would be much bigger (and I've got plenty as it is TYVM).

I have had good luck with the Nfu-Oh formula.  It is fairly quick drying and long lasting.  I usually get a minimum of three days without tip wear.  I rarely experience chips with this polish.

However, their holographic polishes, in the low/mid 60s number range, have the same poor wear that every other company's holographic polishes display.  Nfu-Oh's holos are unique due solely to color range.  The seafoam, 66 is really too cool for my skin tone.  The peach, 62, is perfectly beautiful ... for about a day.

Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics
Ethyl Acetate, Butyl Acetate, Nitrocellulose, Isopropyl Alcohol, Acrylate Copolymer ; Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Ultramarines, Bismuth Oxychloride, FD&C Yellow #5, D&C Red #7, D&C Red #34, Ferric Ferrocyanine, Mica

I've only worn two OCC polishes, but they do have fairly good longevity, I think I got four days before tip wear became an issue.

I've had one polish dry very quickly, where another gave me sheet marks after drying for an hour.  So the formula is tweaked from one to the other.  The sheet marks weren't obvious to a casual glance.

I do have a problem with the brushes.  I had one replaced because it was so flyaway that application was practically impossible.  The other brush I tried was just of poor quality.  So application is a bit messy. 

Also, the formula on OCC polishes smells very strongly.  Much different from any of the other three on this post.

$ephora by OPI
butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, nitrocellulose, tosylamide/epoxy resin, acetyl tributyl citrate, isopropyl alcohol, stearalkonium bentonite, benzophenone-1, silica, trimethylpentanediyl dibenzoate, polyvinyl butyral, cl 77891, cl 15850, cl 77491, cl 77120.

$OPI is a fairly new brand for me.  I find their price too high to justify ... unless they are on clearance, or a deep discount.  As such, I do not expect to acquire a large or even medium sized stash of Sephora by OPI colors.  I have not yet worn one for a full manicure.

China Glaze Peace on Earth

I've just about killed my lemming for NARS Mash with China Glaze's new "Peace on Earth."

A true medium Olive green with gold shimmer, it is the much lighter brother of Wagontrail.

It applies beautifully in two coats with lovely coverage.  Exactly what I was hoping for.  Now I need a color in between POE and WT.  :)

It has no Avocado leanings.

CND Urban Oasis swatch and review and Teal Sparkle

CND's new "Urban Oasis" polish is a pretty, though dark, blue-green/teal leaning further to the blue side than green.

I expected to dislike the polish once I saw how much blue it had, but I've gotten several compliments and it is beginning to grow on me.  Kinda like a fungus actually ... but I'll still switch to CGs "Peace on Earth" when it arrives.

After adding the second coat, I almost immediately crashed my pointer fingers together.  Go figure, I tend to read between polish coats and books can be a challenge to pick up and put down.  With no small amount of dread, mostly because this is a creme and cremes just don't do passable touch-ups as well as shimmers/glitters, I looked at my nails.

No damage.  Wow, these dry as fast as OCC Chlorophyll.  No surprise, the formulas are very similar.

Two days later, I applied the Teal Sparkle top coat as a funky french.  I was noticing the slightest bits of tip wear, and decided to hide them rather than change.

Teal Sparkle has a great deal of green to it, so the combo is unusual, to say the least.  It does have a duo effect, with the plastic bits flashing from clear to green so the base color shows through.  It has also been growing on me.

These photographs were taken on day four of the mani, I believe.  Or day five, but I'll be safe and say four.  There was some minor tip wear, which is very common for me.  I'm always dragging my nails across something. 

Removal of these did turn my fingers blue for a bit, and I used three cotton balls to remove all the lacquer ... a bit more than is typical.  I was able to remove the vast majority of the polish, so I wasn't wandering around with asphyxiated fingers for long.

Barielle Ridge Filling Base Coat
Two coats polish
One coat Nubar Diamont

My refill bottle of Diamont seems to play more nicely with polishes than the original bottle.  It still dries as quickly for me, but the layering is easier and lasts longer.  I had massive peeling problems with the first bottle if I layered anything on top of Diamont, even a second coat of Diamont ... if you change your polish daily or every two days, no biggie, but I like to get at least four or five days from a mani.  This refill is definitely working better, but it is an older bottle.  Probably close to a year old or more.  I've read that Nubar changed the formulation of Diamont, and some bloggers were having a lot of problems.  If so, CND still makes "Air Dry" and I've had great results from that quick-dry as well.