Onion 5022 Knit Top Review

I've sought a built in cap sleeve tank pattern for some time.

This is the closest I have found to RTW options.

Onion 5022 is out of print as far as I can tell, and the closest option they currently have is Onion 5035.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline.

The unusual - 
1) Changed neckline because I prefer V necks

2) Narrowed the shoulder line (this pattern is wide at the shoulders, and I am not)

3) Added in shaping at waistline (and I did not add enough).

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Very simple, two pieces - one front, one back.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

These are made for straight bodies, so you have to add in your own curves if you want this to follow your contours.  More of a fit model versus customer body than actual pattern issues.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

Rectangles, with wide shoulders.

Would you buy this pattern again?

It is OOP, unfortunately.  So I think the likelihood of finding this pattern is slim to none.

However, I would buy a similar pattern in a heartbeat.  I like the wideness of the straps that put this type of pattern smack dab between tank top and t-shirt.

This was thrown together in a couple hours using hemp knit, and I finished the armholes and neckline with a rolled edge binding. 

The photos show trial 2, I still have some shaping to do around the hip region, but I am pleased with the top.  It has gotten several wears already.  I need a closet full of simple, natural/neutral tops to pull on and go.  This is one of my options.  I continue to search through my stash for additional pattern ideas. 

"Tina Givens" "Drennon Tunic" Review

Tina Givens Drennon Tunic is an open side, slit to waist, knee length (on me) tunic covering.  The pattern is free from her website, and is a more streamlined introduction to her patterns (compared to some of the other reviews I've seen).

It would be great for a pool coverup as well.

This is my "toe in the water" dip for the looser fit/lagenlook style that is gaining popularity.  It was made from an old white cotton sateen sheet, dyed with fiber reactive dyes from Dharma Trading Company.

 I think I need to lose another 2" in length in the back so it will hang properly.

I made a small, which fits up to a 44" bust.  I'm generally around 36" give or take.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back.  Being that this is such a loose fit item, I did not fiddle with any other adjustments.  In the future I would make a much greater swayback adjustment.

The unusual - 
1)  I did add an inch to the skirt length when cutting.

2)  Sliced off a triangular section of hem at each bodice side. 
The biggest problem I had with the pattern was with the side seam of the bodice and where it meets the waistband.  It was really puckering and sloppy as originally sewn to pattern.

So I unpicked, tried it on, and pinned the pieces where I thought they should go to hang properly (see photo below).  Then I used a fabric marker to indicate the new seam line on the bodice pieces, and transferred that to the pattern.

In the end, I sliced off the pieces that make the bodice so unique and unusual in the flat pattern.  And it fit much better.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

It is free, and a fairly quick sew.  I spent more time making and sewing binding than I did on any other part of this tunic.  (And her binding length recommendation is generous, especially for size small.  If you are short a bit of fabric for the binding, don't sweat it too much.)

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

You have to use your imagination with the line drawings, and be ready and willing to change it up.  I think this is a fairly well known "issue" with Tina Givens designs.  These are not for by the book sewists who have to follow the directions as written and never stray.

As depicted in the drawing, the tunic laps back over front - which I found to be rather unflattering.  So I switched the lapping to front over back, which controls the loose flipping of the back bodice on my bodyshape/style.  Much better.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

This is a little harder to answer.  Himself said the pictures make me look shorter and wider than I really am. 

I think the skirt needs to be either shorter or longer for me.  Especially as worn with an A-line skirt that causes additional width at the knee area.

Would you buy this pattern again?

I'm not sure.  My wardrobe is in flux at the moment.  Depending on the direction I take with it, I can see either several more Drennon's in my future, or none.

I believe we should all step out of our comfort zone from time to time, and this is one of those patterns for me.  It could lead to some interesting results!

McCall's 5651 Muslin Review

McCall's 5651 is out of print, http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5651-products-8646.php?page_id=1012. 

Continuing my muslin party - View A panties and View F bra.

These are the closest panties to good fit out of the package. They are a bit cheeky (nothing compared to the pattern drawing), but fairly comfortable regardless.

This bra ranks along with Jalie as a favorite of this muslin party.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – Bra front one size smaller than bra back.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Comfy.  All items sew up quickly and easily.

The panties do not shift a great deal while moving, and do not bind at front thigh (ah, I've never had comfort at that joint before).

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

The pattern is drafted with grainline going around the body, resulting in stretch of fabric going up and down the body.  As I prefer my stretch going around, I redrew the grainline perpendicular to that originally indicated.

I think I would prefer a slightly deeper bra back, it is only 1.25" as sewn. I think I will try a 2" total.

What body does this pattern fit (in my estimation)?

Perky hind ends and small busted chests.

Would you buy this pattern again?

Yes, adjustments in progress for muslin 2 ...

Panties - I will add an inch of depth to the backside (widening the bottom back) and remove that length from the crotch.

Bra - I will need to remove a one inch dart from the front armscye.  A common issue being confirmed in every muslin bra top.

Jalie 3023 Bra Muslin Review

  
 

Single layer bra with necessary armscye darts pinned.

Jalie 3023 is available from http://www.jalie.com/jalie3023-tankini-swimskirt-sewing-pattern.html.

I threw together a single layer bra of this tankini, using pieces C, D, G, and H.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

None, this pattern was made as per pattern draft.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

It fits fairly well right out of the package, and I plan to make several more.  I need workout bras for my bra-less shirts, of which I have too many.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

1)  I did not enjoy how odd the folding strap puzzle went together. It does cut down on thickness, but the fiddly folding was irritating. However, I cannot imagine how to adjust the strap formation at this time.  I will ponder up until the second muslin.


2)  This is really more of a Jalie-wide disgruntlement.  I am not comfortable with 1/4" seam allowances, especially when working in knits (my sewing machines love to eat knit, 1/4" SA knits seem to be a favored dish).  I prefer the slightly larger bite of 3/8" SAs.  Having said that, I have to applaud Jalie for NOT going with 5/8" SAs (which are incredibly ridiculous).

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

The bra fits mine, so I recommend it to small busted, pear shaped upper bodies. 

Would you buy this pattern again?

Yes.  I am looking forward to working out in this bra. 

I will need to remove half an inch dart from the front armscye. This is not an uncommon adjustment for me.  This requires adjustment of pieces D (the straps) and G.  The removal is labeled below, I just have to figure out where I'm going to transfer it.

 

Butterick 6031 Muslin Review

 

Butterick 6031 is available from http://butterick.mccall.com/b6031-products-48003.php?page_id=147.


In the continuing saga to fill undergarment holes in my wardrobe, I decided to buy Butterick 6031 after seeing a photograph of the crotch lining piece.  Given its wide base, along the excellent modeling ... ahem ... hind view, I thought these would work better than other panties that appear too high cut. 

After I pulled all the pieces out, I decided to throw together a bra and compare its fit to McCall's 5651.  Keeping in mind that this is not drafted as a bra ...

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – Bra front one size smaller than back.

No further adjustments made, pattern cut out as drafted.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

I like the deeper back of this bra as compared to McCall's 5651.  As I drew it out, it is approximately 2 7/8 inches deep, compared to the 1.25 inches (from memory) of M5651.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

This bra front is too deep and cannot rest against my chest.  Rather it sits away from my chest.  This might be good for hot summers (and cami's), but I prefer fit to body.

I would need to take 1/2" dart out of the front armscye if made again (common adjustment for me in sleeveless styles).

The panties are fairly uncomfortable since they cut into my front hip (my most common complaint with RTW).  I believe this is due to my sway back (and resulting hip rotation) as well as a too short crotch length.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

If you fit RTW panties easily, this may be your perfect pattern.

Would you buy this pattern again?

For the most part, this pattern is a fail for my personal desires and comfort.  I plan to place this pattern in my cull pile and send it on to a better home than my own.

Cloth Habit Rosy Ladyshorts Muslin Review

The Cloth Habit Rosy Ladyshorts are available from Cloth Habit at http://clothhabit.com/free-pattern-rosy-ladyshorts/.

Having identified some closet "holes" I set about having a muslin party of various undergarments, bras and panties.  The Rosy Ladyshorts from Cloth Habit was a quick download and taping of just a few pages.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

As a new to me independent, I have no previously knowledge of the fit.  As such, I made this as per pattern draft.

Pattern appreciation(s)?

These did not dig into my front hip, which is a common issue I have with undergarments.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

These are extraordinarily cheeky (in parlance "minimal back coverage"), and fairly uncomfortable because they shift when I move.  This may indicate using a too big size, but I cannot see a size or two down changing their basic fit.

For me, the crotch length is way too long.  While the front fits well, the back ... well ... see above.  I took a quick 1" tuck out of the crotch length, but this made little difference in fit or feel.

I cannot imagine where to start with adjusting this pattern (major adjustments of this garment type, in my experience, tends to destroy rather than enhance the pattern).  As such, I do not intend to attempt such modifications.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

This pattern is perfect for women who are incredibly deep front to back, and can never find anything that does not bind.

Would you buy this pattern again?

This is a free pattern, and I am glad I had the chance to try it.  I just do not like the way it feels on my body. 

I add in my agreement with other bloggers, sewers, and reviewers, personal fit is very personal.  Less than stellar reviews indicate that the reviewer and tester are not necessarily copacetic. 

I have no quibbles with Cloth Habit's pattern quality.  I do keep eyeing their Watson Bra - http://shop.clothhabit.com/collections/all/products/watson-bra-bikini.

Thurlow Muslin ... Final?

These are made from a fairly thick twill, and they seem to fit well.

The waist is still a bit loose, and I still have some excess height issues in the upper front.

 Maybe they aren't the final muslin ...

Thurlow Muslin 2

 Adjustments made from muslin 1.  Fit improving.

Better fit in front, and they are comfortable to walk in, but I cannot kneel down comfortably ... my legs resemble sausages ... (lightbulb moment) I suspect my upper leg is bigger than the draft - I need more leg room.

By raising the waist seam, I now need to remove about an inch in total at the top of the waistband to better conform.  And the waistband is now too high ... remove 1/4" in height at seam. 

Brand New, but Sanctified, Sweater

One reason why ready-to-wear is so hard to buy ...

I've never worn this sweater out and about.  It is SmartWool's "Lightweight Front Range Pullover Sweater" in Deep Sea Heather. 

The pros: it is a beautiful color.  So much better than the typical offering of black, black, or ... charcoal!

The cons: It is brand new, washed once ... on hand cycle in the washer, in a lingerie bag ... laid flat to dry.  Even more gentle than SmartWool's washing instructions.

Result - two holes.   The shoulder hole appears to be a result of poor sewing and associated unraveling ... fixable if you have the time and patience.  The back hole is the result of a fiber giving way and releasing the knitting on either side.

I'm disappointed.  The fibers are of low quality and the sewing is not much better.  And this is supposed to be a sweater I can run in???  No chance of that happening now.

SmartWool, the manufacturer, is to blame for this travesty.  Backcountry, the company I purchased it from, is in charge of the refund.  Here's to a responsible company (... here, here!)