Onion 5022 Knit Top Review

I've sought a built in cap sleeve tank pattern for some time.

This is the closest I have found to RTW options.

Onion 5022 is out of print as far as I can tell, and the closest option they currently have is Onion 5035.

What adjustments did you make?  And why?

The usual – sway back, drop waistline.

The unusual - 
1) Changed neckline because I prefer V necks

2) Narrowed the shoulder line (this pattern is wide at the shoulders, and I am not)

3) Added in shaping at waistline (and I did not add enough).

Pattern appreciation(s)?

Very simple, two pieces - one front, one back.

Pattern disgruntlement(s)?

These are made for straight bodies, so you have to add in your own curves if you want this to follow your contours.  More of a fit model versus customer body than actual pattern issues.

What body does this pattern fit (in your estimation)?

Rectangles, with wide shoulders.

Would you buy this pattern again?

It is OOP, unfortunately.  So I think the likelihood of finding this pattern is slim to none.

However, I would buy a similar pattern in a heartbeat.  I like the wideness of the straps that put this type of pattern smack dab between tank top and t-shirt.

This was thrown together in a couple hours using hemp knit, and I finished the armholes and neckline with a rolled edge binding. 

The photos show trial 2, I still have some shaping to do around the hip region, but I am pleased with the top.  It has gotten several wears already.  I need a closet full of simple, natural/neutral tops to pull on and go.  This is one of my options.  I continue to search through my stash for additional pattern ideas. 

Review: Onion 5028

 

This pattern comes from the Danish company Onion.

It is a remarkable variety of tank tops, and almost exactly what I was looking for.  It pays to shop your stash! 

I chose the plain back pattern, but added in the "princess seam" option in the front (not that visible).  After assembly, I feel that the straight lines are fairly useless, and don't really add to the pattern for me (a friend agrees).

Interestingly enough, Sarah Veblen's "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting" has a princess seam primer on page 96.  And her book may help explain my disillusionment.  For optical illusion assistance, I would be better served to have rounded seam lines on my princess seams.

Straight princess line, like those found in this pattern better serve those with sizeable chesticules.

The upper back fits well, but I probably need to take out a little more in the sway back alteration.  I ten to narrow my sway back in knits, since they are stretchy, but I think I went a little too narrow this time.

I think the front also fits well.  The neckline is comfortable, neither too low nor too high.

This is definitely a keeper for me, and I anticipate producing several more over the next couple of years ... because I am slow that way!

Review: Burda 7519 Cowl Neck shirt

 

Burda's 7519 is two shirt patterns (same tissue) with a cowl neck and either short/fitted/sleeveless variation or long/loose/draped sleeve variation.

The fabric suggestions are jersey, satin, and crepe.  It is rare to run into a knit or woven, your choice, pattern.  They are usually either/or.

The front is cut on the bias, while the back is on the straight of grain.

I've been looking (and looking and looking) for a close fitted cowl neck top.  I really like the look of the cowl neck, but generally don't like the way they fit on me.

I made the sleeveless variation up in a thin rayon knit.  I narrowed the cowl neck by 2 inches total (it looked too big as drawn), performed a typical sway back alteration, and cut it in the smallest size.

Result?  I think the back looks good, the side view is nice, but the front is too big.  It hangs, because I don't have the, uh, chesticules to fill the top.

I suspect I would need to grade the front down another size or two, further narrow the cowl, and then, maybe, I would like the front view.

 

The back view is fairly comfortably fitted. The darts are a nice touch.

The side view looks good to me.  Close fit, but not tight.

But the front just has too much excess fabric.  Cowls are a fiddly pattern.  Nudged a little to far either way and they are no longer elegant. 

This one falls into the not elegant on me category. 

I am torn, do I continue fiddling with pattern?  Or try something new?  Because I'm all about trying a new pattern ... but feel that this one is close ...

Review: HotPatterns Fringe Festival Scarf-T

Unfortunately, this got dumped in the trash before I had pictures of it.  Not because I didn't like the top, but because it developed a hole in the shoulder line after two wears.

My biggest problem with this pattern was the fabric I chose, a very thin rayon knit.  I think this pattern would be much better off in a medium weight knit, especially with consideration to how the scarf hangs.

I liked the cap sleeve, it has a cute shape.  A great summer weight shirt that would be more than acceptable in some work environments.

I did shorten it a bit, as I felt it was just too long, and I had an interesting experiment with the armhole seam.  I drew flaps on the traced pattern so that I could fold in and sew the armhole seam down after sewing the side seams.  It certainly worked, but I'm sure my face was unusually animated as I tried to figure out how and where to draw the flaps for later sewing ... a great fabric manipulation puzzle.

I may or may not make this pattern again.  It did feel like a short cut when I wore it (tops should be harder to sew!), and I felt the scarf was worthlessly floppy ... probably due to fabric choice. 

But, I also dislike raw edge patterns, and the raw edge of the scarf shows as it is only a single layer.  This could be fixed by doubling it, but then you have the issue of twice as much weight on the scarf.  Hm ...

Burda 7834 Review

Pattern Link to Burdamode.com

The photo above is from Burda's website, as is the description, "This blouse comes in the new cut, ready for your fashionable appearance next summer! Broadly curved panels, particularly decorative in contrasting fabric, cleverly shape your figure. The blouse is easy to put on and take off due to its back zipper.
Recommended fabric:
Viscose, crêpe fabrics, batiste"

I've had this pattern since it first came out, and it has intermittently called my name for several seasons.  There was always something else to work through first.  I finally came to the conclusion that if I didn't start on it now, I never would.  And considering the rate at which I acquire new patterns, I REALLY need to make some of those older purchases worthwhile.

I have completely changed the order in which I put this together.  I did not want to piece the neckline, so I took out the back neck seamline.  I also shortened the zipper by a bit (or actually, I did not have a long enough zipper, and decided to work with what I have rather than buy new).

I lengthened the bodice by one inch and interlined the front bodice with cotton lawn since my rayon is crepey and thin.

I also sewed the sleeve bands last.  The pattern directs you to put them on flat, which mean visible seams at the armpit ... noooooooo!  Ick, ick, ick!

And I decided to punish myself by lining the inner band.  It looks nicer as I slide it over my head.

I deepened the hem by an inch, interfaced it with my lightest weight interfacing (Pam's Pro-Sheer Elegance) which still makes the hem too heavy with how crepey this rayon is, but mini hems always flip on me and drive me nuts.  So I shall adjust.


Strange how I never really noticed until a friend pointed it out, but this pattern is pretty low cut ... perhaps not as low cut as some Vogues, but still ...  I guess that explains the really large necklaces that the models wear in both photos.

I suppose in a mirthful moment I might feel a bit like the love child of Purple Rain era Prince and Jennifer Lopez.  But only when I glance straight down.  Usually I realize that most people get this view, which isn't completely immodest:

 
When I lengthened the bodice by one inch so the band would appropriately fit under my bust rather than across it, this also lengthened the neckbands.  I then took a perpendicular half inch pie slice out of the neck band and bodice pieces at the upper chest for my concave chest adjustment.  But really, I could have taken more.  The band doesn't snug quite as closely as I would like.

Two things that I should have done: narrow the shoulders by an inch or so, and a sway back adjustment.  I forgot about my shoulders ... oops.  But the sway back, I thought the hem was wide enough not to need the sway back, but since the wideness is confined to the center front quite well, there is obvious pulling at the hips from the needed adjustment.  It won't keep me from wearing the top, but it is something I notice.

It is a cute top in fun, summery colors.  The bands were done in a linen, so the facings are all done in the rayon fabric. 

It is something I'd wear teaching only with a camisole or camisole mimicing bralette underneath.


I don't know if I would make this again.  Because the front is so poofy, I might redraft it, perhaps adding in gathering at the side waist to keep some summery fullness in the piece.