13 April 2010

Jalie 2682 - shirt muslin 2 review

Jalie's Stylish V-Neck Top Pattern

The Original Muslin
- cut size V (37" bust and 31" waist) to W at hips (41" hips)
- lengthen the upper bodice by 1" for long torso
- 5/8" sway back adjustment (add back seam)

I pretty much put this together as directed.

This first muslin was extremely droopy at the neckline. I know other people have fixed this problem by adjusting the back neckline, but I was determined to fix the main problem ... a "concave" chest on the muslin model, me. I don't have a picture of the first muslin.

Additionally, it was too big. I had "loosely" measured as I remember my last Jalie being too tight for my measurements. However, loose is too loose. So in addition to the chest problems, I also needed to drop a size.

Here is a picture of Muslin 2, Jalie 2682.

The neckline was tightened up enough for certain fabrics, but I could still pull another 1/2" dart out of the neckline. I cut this one in a size U for bust and waist and tapered to a V for the hips.

It now fits fairly well, but in order to approach the final shirt, I need to do final adjustments. Like rotating out an armhole dart. I can see its need in the side view.

I think the upper back looks good, the lower back ... I've already taken out 5/8" in sway back adjustments ... do I need anymore?

Maybe I should wait until the third version is complete with a hem. A hem might pull out the remaining wrinkles.

As to the neckline, adjustments went as follows.

First mark where your excess is located. Mine is always in the upper chest, the pattern is simply too long for my upper chest. I decided to dart it out to the armhole.

Cut down the middle of your dart and overlap the pieces, folding out the excess length.

Now to redraw the center fold line (since it has been completely thrown off by the dart) and shift the needed adjustments to the opposite side.

In the picture above, the original pattern piece is on the bottom, and you can clearly see how the center fold-line is thrown off if you compare the bottom original to the second top piece.

I basically measured how much I'd have to pull in the outerseam line by measuring from the new fold line to the true fold line. At the tip of the dart, this ended up being about 3/8" if I remember correctly. I then rotated each piece (upper bodice and lower bodice) to the new measurement and redrew.

If fits and seems to work ... now to put a third together for everyday wear.

I like how quickly these go together, how simple the neckline is without being boring, and I can imagine this being used in many different looks.

It works with thin fabrics since the front bodice is doubled. No see through. You could also double the upper back or the entire shirt if you need more coverage.

This is a great basic.

No comments: