23 February 2008

PR - Vogue - 2939

Vogue 2939

I threw, almost literally, together a muslin for this snap front dress shirt. What attracted me to the pattern most was the severely inset sleeves. And I'm really pleased, for two reasons:

#1, I've recently had rotten results with Vogue 8323 and Vogue 7799, and I was ready to give up on Vogue patterns

#2, I love the pattern, I'm very pleased with the muslin and expect future tweaks to make it that much better. (Which is good, since I doubt I'll make use of the other pieces.)

Starting with the back ...

Obviously, it needs a bit more room in the hip area, and a bit more taken out for my sway back.

My typical pattern adjustments include: 5/8" taken out for sway back, 1/2" taken out for erect upper back, hips one size larger than bust, shorten sleeves, and narrow shoulder. The only adjustment I did not make to this pattern was the narrowed shoulder.

Sleeve looks good from the back, upper back looks fairly good ... onto the front ... uh-oh

Love the collar and sleeve hem treatment, but the front sleeve is wrinkling really funny all along the upper arm. I think the armscye seam and sleeve is simply too long in front. This will be a unique adjustment for me. Not necessarily the first time it has shown, but as I'm in search of TNT patterns, I'm going to perfect this pattern.

There is no pulling at the hips in front. But I may have a bit much fabric in the upper chest, and I think I'll start with a horizontal tuck across the upper front and sleeve.

AND, I'll use a higher quality fabric next time around.

The hem treatment was "homaged" directly from a top I spied a waiter wearing several months back. Since I like the option of tucking or leaving out, this facing gives a great finish to a shirt. I will de-emphasize the peaks at the side hem just a bit.

A highly recommended pattern, versatile and wearable. The snaps could easily be changed into buttons and I encourage profligate interfacing use, as well as an invented back facing (the collar lies so much nicer this way).

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