29 September 2018

Utah, early June

Oops, what we did BETWEEN AZ and NM return!

Onward and upward
10 June
Utah

Wilderness Ranch RV Park
500 acres of wildlife off 89

Nice site and plenty to explore locally as we anticipate time at Bryce Canyon, Kodachrome SP, and Dixie NF.


Bryce is pretty, but crowded.  I found Inspiration Point visually overwhelming, too many things to look at and nowhere for the eye to rest.  Obviously, an artist did NOT carve Bryce!  Sunrise and Sunset points were visually attractive and well worth the trip.  We walked a little over 4 miles.  They do not allow dogs on many trails, and their signage and directions suck.  We went back and forth several times trying to figure out where we were, where we wanted to go, and how to get there.


Kodachrome State Park is a lot of driving, the formations are gorgeous, widely dispersed, and lightly visited.



Uh-oh, we have had the ignitor board fail on the Truck Camper, no more hot water for us until the board is replaced.  This is, apparently, a well-known issue with these Chinese circuit boards.  

Into Cedar City, apparently 72% LDS, to seek the board at an RV shop.  No such luck.  They can order ... well, so can we.  

We grocery shopped and got dog food while we were out.  Produce!  Yum.



I burn Mr. SMTs pizza when we return to the camper.  Note to self, do not try to cook 2 pizzas at once.  Or, alternatively, purchase another wire shelf for the oven so we have twice as much baking space. 

I'm comparing this trip to the last and coming to the conclusion that this trip has not been nearly as much fun as the last.  My skin is uncomfortable, I NEVER know where we are going to go or for how long we are going to stay (why don't you plan something then, Kira, you ask?  Yep, tried that.  My ideas get shot down, they are always too "fill-in-the-blank": too far, too busy, too much traffic, too sunny, too many unknowns), I have to wash a layer of dirt off my feet every day, the only thing I can smell is dirt (or burned pizza), I hate eating so late (we eat at ~5 pm at home, we typically eat 6, 7, 8 pm or later on the road), I wake up unable to breath every morning, and I don't have any handwork to occupy my non-reading down time (I will address that if there should be another trip).

Our fridge and generator have given us fits at the altitudes we have been traveling. 


On the positive side:
  • I've seen areas of the desert SW I never have before
  • I got to spend time with family
  • Um, I got to see beautiful night skies full of stars (though I saw that in PA, too)
  • I've gotten to watch the way Mr SMTs mind works through problems
  • I've gotten to see Aspen trees
  • I've gotten to drive the Jeep on some rough terrain
  • I've gotten to exercise under the stars in some strange places


Conclusion?  
Almost a month into high altitudes, and I think my body would adjust Oxygen wise.  
Almost 2 months into the low humidity, and my skin has yet to adapt.


06/13 - 06/15
Head out toward Blanding area.  We are not going the way Mr SMT said we were going.  Good thing I hadn't done any research on THAT way, huh?

Driving east along 12.  Dropping in elevation.  More red and blond rock and interesting formations to look at as we drive past.


Yep, it is hot!


Cottonwood RV Park
Pretty good for our expectations.  With no generator, we need electricity, and without hot water, we need showers.  Otherwise, we might have chosen a different park.  I call the RV # and Nancy answers and drives right out to meet us.  She lets us pay via CC, and gives us a pretty awesome map of the area.

Natural Bridges National Monument
The "dogs allowed" area is VERY confusing, so we have to use our noggins and guess.  No photos of the bridges.  It was early enough in the day that the bridges blended in with the surrounding area.

Moki Dugway
6 switchbacks in 3 miles with a 10% grade gravel road.  Sign us up!  We also chatted with a Jeep going the other way.  (Not many women driving this roadway.  ðŸ˜¢)  I offered to drive back to the top so Mr SMT could drive it himself.  He declined.  It rains a bit on this drive.  Wow!  Water from the sky!  I have missed you.






Valley of the Gods
Another fun drive.


I described the formations:
Chess set
Bart Simpson crouched down
Fertility statue bust
African Prince

Goosenecks State Park
Goosenecks State Park is  interesting.  It is a river switchback.  I get to practice some rough road driving in the Jeep.

We approached the far point, and then the road got bad enough, I decided to turn around.  I've had enough rock crawling for one day.

07 September 2018

Heading home, Childress RV Park

06/17

Drive for TX.  We have dental appts and must get home in time.  Otherwise, we would likely stay in Chama.

We spend the night in Childress Fair Park, most of the reviews indicate it is a quiet, little used area.  There are 5 hookup spots ($15/night, 3 night maximum).  


Imagine our surprise when we are the 4th campers to arrive. 

A lovely evening spent chatting with fellow RVers: M, A, and B (Havanese).


I come in from walking the dogs, Mr SMT has turned off the AC.  I have trouble going to sleep because it is too fricken hot, so I turn the AC back on.

I finally fall asleep a little after 11.

I awaken a little after 1, hot and sweating.  Mr SMT is reading his iPad, in non-AC comfort.  He turned it off!  Arggggggg!

Two hours later, I fall back asleep ... to be awakened at 5:30 am because Mr SMT wants to get out ahead of Ft Worth traffic.  Le sigh.  I suppose the headache and fuzziness will be worth it.

Stop along the way, walk the dogs, etc.  Fuel the truck.  Snooze in passenger side. (Guess who drives the ENTIRE way home due to his anti-A/C obsession? )


06 September 2018

Chama NM

06/15 to 06/17
Four Corners and Shiprock on the way to ... Chama, NM.

The Four Corners has a huge parking lot, an unopened visitor area, and no dogs allowed.  Harumph.




The railroad in Chama is, of course, the ultimate destination.

Chama is delightfully cool and humid, being right next to the Rio Chama.  

The people working in and around Rio Chama RV park are kind and considerate.  Site 15.  The park is densely populated, though you are able to maintain a sense of solitude in MOST of the sites.  This is a water and electric site, $30/day.


They have a toilet and shower trailer: 2 showers, 2 (or was it 3) sinks, and 3 toilets in the women's side.  Very well maintained.  There's very little trash in the park and the Cottonwoods are shedding seeds like crazy!

We walk the dogs.  There IS a dog park on site, however, like MOST parks, the fencing is far too short for us to release the hounds!  A four foot fence is the lowest height upon which we will gamble, we prefer a five or six foot fence.

Mr SMT walks over to observe the train leaving and to wander around the yard (and to talk with Train employees).




We walk the dogs.

I do a band workout (I miss my weights!)

We walk down to the river to watch the train return.

We walk the dogs.

It rains both days. Ahhhhhhhhh.

05 September 2018

Arizona Pt 2 The Grand Canyon

June 04
We said goodbye to my Aunt and Uncle, and their very welcoming pup, turned north and headed to the Grand Canyon. 

We are boondocking on Long Jim Loop, and while the days are getting very warm, the nights are still cool and comfortable.


We get one of the last 3 RV parking spots.  Mr SMT is uncomfortable leaving the truck behind when we boondock, so we tow the Jeep into the South Rim area.  First day in Grand Canyon we walk the Rim trail eastward from the visitor's center, and head back to the camper to dry out and water the pups.


We hear a bunch of foreign voices: quite a few Japanese and Germans, and a handful of Australians.

We get a lot of "What kind of dog is that?"  Hardly anyone guesses right, although we've had two people do so in my memory.  And I guarantee everyone makes a face and "Huh?" comment when I say "Cirneco dell'Etna."



We talked about visiting the eastern portion of the park before heading out for the second day of our North AZ portion of the trip.  I awaken to "let's stay another day and dump before we leave."

What?

THIS is why I cannot make any plans or settle into our travels.  He NEVER sticks with what we discussed.  It is very frustrating.  

I had to sing "me, me, me" to Beethoven's Fifth this morning.  A former co-worker of Mr SMT once said, "He does not do anything unless he wants to."  This is SO very accurate.  If I want to do something he does not, I do not get to do so.  He asks why I don't plan anything on our trips, and all he gets is sullen stink eye in response.  "Do not even start!"

And, to increase our joy, the generator does not work at 8000' elevation.


People watching
We have been amazed at the idiocy of visitors climbing past protective barricades at the Grand Canyon.  They generally carry an ice cream cone in one hand and a camera in the second as they navigate along shear cliffs ranging in height from hundreds to thousands of feet.  I really must do some research on the yearly death rate at the Grand Canyon.



Our drive to the Desert View area exposes us to the eastern edge of the Grand Canyon.  It is not truly the edge of the canyon walls, but they narrow to a small valley through which the river runs,  highlighting the more desolate eastern plain.  Quite a contrast to the color and complexity of the Canyon to the west.  I recommend the eastern edge as an important foil to the southern rim visitor's center and viewing areas.

And the girl is around ALL THOSE PEOPLE, and not completely freaking out!  Go girl!

We spend another night on Long Jim Loop before heading around the 180+ mile trip to reach the northern rim that is 20 miles away as the crow flies.






We camp along National Forest Road 611, in site 611PD.  We have a pretty amazing view of the northeastern canyon ridge right outside our door. It is a multimile drive along a rough, graveled road.  We traveled between 10 and 20 mph during this trek.  And the last couple sites we visited were done only by foot and Jeep, as the road was really too rough (Mr SMT calls it Mogules) for me to be comfortable taking the camper down it.  We offroaded the Jeep!






A few hours later, I heard the oddest sounds coming from the direction of the rough, hilly section.  It sounded like a drum beat.  We were wandering around with the pups when I suddenly realized the noise I heard was spinning tire(s).  I had been relaxing and reading earlier in the day when we heard a vehicle pass down our little road, heading for the rough patch.  They traveled at such speed that by the time we looked up to peek at the vehicle, the driver had already passed behind foliage.  Not surprising, it was this vehicle that was stuck, and seemed to hold a handful of rowdy boy children.  It was a van like vehicle and they probably worked for about 30 minutes to get unstuck.  They left a lot of wood debris behind when they finally scratched their way out.

I joked that the third time I heard spinning tires, I would be an expert, and recognize the sound immediately.


We visit the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, and are quite thankful for our annual pass.  If we had to pay the $35 fee for entry, we would leave feeling ripped off.

The north rim seems to be a hiker or bikers paradise, but only those without dogs!  The NR allows dogs on two trails only.  The best part of the visit?  Free dump station and water fill at the campground.  We parked at the shower lot, showered in the camper, and then proceeded with dump and fill!

As an aside, we have to admit that the dump stations we've visited at the Grand Canyon are pretty much the worst designed dump sites by a mile (and we've seen some pretty sketchy stations!)  Difficult to maneuver, one way access that puts you at the opposite tilt you need, and only one station per rim.  Better than no dump station at all.

04 September 2018

Arizona Pt 1 - Family






05/18-
Driveway Camping with family
South of Flagstaff

My family was in the evacuation area for the Tinder (should have been Kinder) fire in late April/early May.  33 homes lost, started April 27 by an illegal campfire, and began spreading in earnest April 29.  It was 79% contained on the 8th of May.

We arrived around 2 pm, a little earlier than I anticipated because I forgot about the 1 hour time change.

I twisted my ankle slipping on stairs, and hobbled around for three days.  We went on a winding, twisty road to hang out in Jerome, a very cool little town.  My Uncle is a hunter and hardly eats anything but meat heavy meals (my Aunt also hunts, but is more adventurous in her eating habits).  Needless to say, we visited a BBQ joint in Jerome ... everyone seemed to enjoy their meal.  I tried to tactfully say that since the road was so windy and twisty, the last thing I wanted to take back to homebase was a full stomach.  I strongly believed it would not remain so.

Once my ankle healed enough, I have been alternating yoga and kickboxing each morning.

My Aunt and Uncle have a yellow lab.  She is just a couple months older than my own pups, and has been quite gracious about us moving into her territory.  The pups have been digging in the backyard as there are various rodents to hunt!  They caught a mouse one morning.  We await their vole capture!




Places we considered visiting during our NE AZ vacation:

Montezuma Well and Castle National Monument, Camp Verde, AZ
     Pets allowed

Lava River Cave
     Coconino National Forest
     Pet allowance unknown

Slide Rock State Park, Sedona
     No pets in swim area
     $20/vehicle

Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park, Sedona
     Well behaved, leashed pets allowed

Chamber of Commerce Visitors Center, Sedona
     Harmony Park, outdoor musical instruments

Red Rock State Park, Sedona
     No pets allowed

Palatki Heritage Site and its sister site, Honanki, were the largest cliff dwellings of the Red Rock Country
     No pets allowed

Canyon De Chelly
     No pets allowed on trail
     Free drives through area



Sedona, 2 hour drive
Snebbly Hill (on the way to Sedona)


*HOLBROOK, 1.5 hours
Petrified National Forest


*GRAND CANYON, 3 hours
Grand Canyon South Rim
Leashed pets allowed.


FLAGSTAFF, 1.5 hours
*Walnut Canyon National Monument, Flagstaff
     3 Walnut Canyon Road
     Leashed pets are allowed on the Rim Trail and in the visitor center parking lot

Flagstaff, AZ The Arboretum in Flagstaff
     4001 S Woody Mountain Rd, Flagstaff, AZ 86001

*PetCo
     5047 E Marketplace Dr, Flagstaff, AZ 86004

*Whole Foods
     320 S Cambridge Lane, Flagstaff, AZ 86001

Sprouts
     1540 S Riordan Ranch St, Flagstaff, AZ 86001

*Natural Grocers
     503 W Clay Ave, Flagstaff, AZ 86001

Buffalo Park
     Nate Avery Trail
     2400 N Gemini Dr, Flagstaff, AZ 86001

New Jersey Pizza Company
     2224 E Cedar Ave, Flagstaff

Toasted Owl (dog friendly patios)
     On the South Side:
     12 S. Mike's Pike, Flagstaff, AZ
     7 Days a Week: 7am - 4pm

     On the East Side:
     5200 North Cortland Blvd
     7 Days a Week: 7am - 4pm

Pizza Patio
     109 E Phoenix, Flagstaff, Arizona, USA, 86001

Riordan Mansion State Historic Park, Flagstaff
     10.00 tour fee
      No dogs in bldgs

Museum of Northern AZ, Flagstaff
     Monday-Saturday: 10 am-5 pm
     Sunday: 12-5 pm
     12.00 per admission

Wupatki National Monument, Flagstaff
     25137 N. Sunset Crater-Wupatki Loop Rd.
     pets are not permitted on any trails. Pets are also not allowed in park buildings.
We welcome your pets in parking lots on leashes six feet (1.8 m) long or shorter.

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, Flagstaff
     6082 Sunset Crater Road
     Pets are NOT ALLOWED on any trails in the monument or in buildings.
    Pets are allowed in the parking lot only



Monument Valley
     Utah, Navajo Nation
     Dog allowance unknown 
Arches National Park, Moab, Utah
     Activities with pets are very limited at Arches. Pets are not allowed on any hiking trails. 


Bryce Canyon National Park, Bryce, Utah
     Pets are not permitted on unpaved trails or viewpoints, or in public building

Zion National Park, Springdale, Utah
     Leashed pets may be walked on the Pa'rus Trail. All other trails, and all wilderness areas, are closed to pets.





In other words, AZ and Utah are NOT the most dog friendly vacation destinations.  I realize it is a mix of someone has ruined it for the rest of us dog owners, but also old fashioned rules of "dogs are farm or working animals and have no business in public spaces."  Harumph, I could say the same thing about all children not my niece and nephew.  But you'll notice that I haven't placed any "no children allowed" signs in any area.  

Charge a (reasonable) fee for canine entry into parks and other accessible areas.  Fine people who do not follow the rules.  

Just know, FYI, my SO and I are childless, furkidful.  You want my money?  You let me bring my dogs.  Well-behaved, a bit vocal, under control of a short leash, and ready to enjoy the experiences I do.  It is not like they can run up to people who do not like (or fear) dogs ... unlike children, who can (and do) run up to adults who dislike (and/or fear) the wee spawn.

I just LOVED the sign that I saw on a National Park site justifying dog refusal ... dogs will scare the native animals, make the animals scent predators.  Uh, yeah.  You mean dogs smell like coyotes, wolves, and perhaps even foxes?  How have you managed to keep such predators out of our lovely parks?  Inquiring minds wish to know?  Idiots!  🙄  At least find a half-way reasonable argument.  This one has more holes than a sprinkler hose.




At ... one month out, my skin is so uncomfortable.  I have almost used up an entire 2 oz jar of Shea Butter.  I slather my body in this stuff each night.  I leave trails wherever I walk!  Mr SMT and our little gal have also been slathered at times.  I do get minor improvements from one day to the next ... could my body ever truly adjust?  It just does not feel like little improvements will add up enough!

The dryness, minimal biological diversity, and cardio discomfort at 7000+' have (possibly) FINALLY cured Mr SMT of his desert move desires.  Ugh!  Here's hoping.  🤞🤞🤞


We visited the Petrified National Forest one day, and Flagstaff the next. 



I liked Flagstaff as a city (from what I saw), but their grocery stores get a HUGE thumbs down.  They carry very little in the way of fresh produce.  Much of their stock seems to be geared towards college students.  It is neither healthy, nor desirable.  I trekked through "Whole Foods" and "Natural Grocers."  No canned mushrooms or whole wheat pizza crust.  My highly irate text to Mr SMT "I am so sick of being stuck eating shit because YOU people find it acceptable."  Yep, I was irritated.  

The Whole Foods has plenty of: raw meat, soda, alcohol, and snacks.  You want anything of substance?  How about some oranges or grapefruit?  Sorry, you are SOL.

Natural Grocers also had a minuscule produce section.  But they did have my mushrooms.  Don't you just loooove the response from an SO to a food query that goes "Oh, you know what I like."  Arggggggggggg!

We tackled Walnut Canyon because: 1) they allow dogs on one trail, and 2) we bought an annual pass (and I am determined to break even!)  The Canyon visit was awesome.  We were in Flagstaff on a Tuesday, and the local botanical garden was closed. Bummer.  Luckily, the canyon's trail includes several botanical specimen tags and historical use info.  Perfect. However, the trail is blacktop and in mostly full sun.  Any later in the year, and I would worry about burning puppy pads.  😢


Aunty gave me some recipes she's saved for me, and sent us out with a full larder.  The camper is stuffed!  Thanks for everything Aunty and Uncle!  🤗🤗🤗